Thread: Alls Well that Anv-ells?

Yea, I didnt think the WD40 would make any difference, not at 20 tons and not moving! My fear with heating is that the hardy will expend enough to bust the tail off. I know wrought is much together than cast in this regard, but its still a cause for concern.
When I go back to it, I will try giving the hardy a few taps with the hammer while its under pressure. If that doesn't break it loose, its drill time, which will piss me off, because that will ruin what I had hoped to be a good (and useful) tool.

Since heat causes metal to expand, what if you could cool the hardy shank enough to contract it so you could tap it out? Dry ice maybe around the hardy tool? I've heard of auto mechanics freezing a bearing in the fridge so they could press fit it easier.

when & if you do get it out, I'd definitely sand down the shank some.

Originally Posted by dcraven

Since heat causes metal to expand, what if you could cool the hardy shank enough to contract it so you could tap it out? Dry ice maybe around the hardy tool? I've heard of auto mechanics freezing a bearing in the fridge so they could press fit it easier.

when & if you do get it out, I'd definitely sand down the shank some.

Couple cans of freon may also work,used to freeze locking lugnuts with the stuff when people lost the key,freeze um,smack um with a hammer,they crack right off

There is a product called Kroil that really gets into the spaces between rust / metal and might do the trick for you, it has worked for me in the past.

As for the magnet I use a large one under the horn of my old Mousehole anvil and it does help to deaden the ring. You know that a ring isn't necessary for a good anvil. Many anvils were made NOT to ring and are sometimes called "city anvils". When there were a shop ful of guys beating on an anvil the noise was really something so I have read.

For anyone looking for anvils, be careful when buying cheap anvils that are usually newer and imported. Almost all old anvils had a hardened plate forge welded or cast onto them for the work surface. Many of the newer imported anvils are simply cast iron and can shatter. One of my friends didn't listen to this advice and could have had a very bad accident when it shattered.

You did good on that Peter Wright. I would just use it until I learned what you need to do to the edges and then proceed on. One of my true blacksmith friends has changed and ground on the edge of his onvil over the years to help him do what he is currently doing alot of.

Will N.

Saw in another post you got the hot cut out, congrats! How'd you do it? Might help me or someone else to know what worked.

hahaha! no, its STILL in there! The anvil you see in the other post is a much smaller (about 50lb) Vulcan. Easy to move around to the front porch where I have been working the last few days.

I came across this thread while searching IFI for something else. No resolution stated but at least you can see the suggested ideas. Un-plugging a Pritchel hole - Problem Solving - I Forge Iron