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Thread: My first 3 Razors WIP
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06-03-2014, 06:22 PM #11
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- Apr 2013
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- Stockholm, Swedcen
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Thanked: 0This is my first time using such a file, and I assume that I will use the file to remove most of the scale and then resort to small files with sandpaper wrapped around them or something like that, in order to polish between the checkering.
If anyone else uses a checkering file like I did, please let me know how you clean and polish after heat treatment
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06-04-2014, 02:49 AM #12
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- Jun 2007
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- Murrumba Downs, Queensland, Australia.
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Thanked: 203yep - you are on the right track. i use the file again as it is removing scale, not hardened steel. Then some wet dry paper, sometimes wrapped around a triangular file to get in the grooves. Then a sisal wheel on the buffer with cutting compound, followed by soft wheel with polish. Then get an old toothbrush and some rubbing alcohol and scrub out the jimps to get all the compound out. i do this after the cutting compound, then again after the polish. i do this [I]before[I] i start the final hollow grind and thin the blade down. Much safer.
Also - this is only on the jimping. The sides of the tang {on folding razors} i do not want to risk rounding, so it on the sides is all done by hand with wet dry paper on a flat rubbing stick.
When all is nearly finished, i clean again with alcohol and work a couple of coats of ren wax into the jimping, pivot hole and all around the tang to give some protection from rust.
Looking good with your work there.
Regards.
AdamRespectfully,
Adam.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Adam G. For This Useful Post:
Sompla (06-13-2014)
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06-12-2014, 02:09 PM #13
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- NW Indiana
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Thanked: 246Be very careful if you're using a file against/near steel hardened to 60+Rc. You will roll the file teeth in an instant otherwise. That is approaching the hardness of the file if not equal. I've seen many a file ruined that way during my machining career.
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The Following User Says Thank You to eKretz For This Useful Post:
Sompla (06-13-2014)
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06-12-2014, 05:44 PM #14
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- Sep 2009
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- SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
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Thanked: 1936Sisal wheel & buffers do fine for me
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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The Following User Says Thank You to ScottGoodman For This Useful Post:
Sompla (06-13-2014)
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06-12-2014, 10:52 PM #15
Ditto. I've ruined more than one file on 'too hard' steel.
My good files only touch annealed steel anymore. that way they'll be happierTil shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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The Following User Says Thank You to Bruno For This Useful Post:
Sompla (06-13-2014)
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06-16-2014, 04:42 PM #16
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- Apr 2013
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- Stockholm, Swedcen
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- 15
Thanked: 0I've done some post HT grind, and up to this point I have been grinding with 60 grit belts, now I will be doing the last grinding with 120 grit, then establishing the bevel and tune the final grinds as I move up through the grits.
(In the first picture only two of the razors had been ground, as you can see) The edges are about 0.30 mm thick.
Thank you for all your help so far! I am having alot of fun with these!
Kind regards
Max
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06-16-2014, 05:23 PM #17
Great thread, thank you for keeping us posted.
The Q&A and comments have also been very helpful in understanding the process.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product.Support Movember!
Movember https://mobro.co/markcastellana?mc=1
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06-16-2014, 05:25 PM #18
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- Nov 2012
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- Across the street from Mickey Mouse in Calif.
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Thanked: 1184Having fun and doing a great job :<0) I am watching your progress because I too am having some fun on my own. Thanks for sharing.
Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.