Thread: First Straight Razor Build (A learning Process)

Originally Posted by DVW

Let me know where you post them. I'd love to see it.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/forge...ml#post1350136

Originally Posted by DVW

I sent him a PM. Thanks for the pointer. While I debate the type of steel, I drew up a sketch of the blade. The goal is to have something that is fairly basic, relatively easy to make, looks good and easy to use for a beginner (me). What I came up with was a blade about 3 inches long, by about 7/8 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick at the spine. Thoughts??

Attachment 168713

DVW,
you original design looks a lot like my Ator
it was 8/8" now just ove 7/8" (after a frown removal) and it has a 1/8" spine
so far I have not fully honed it and needs more time on the Bevel setting
it is a thin full hollow belly ground blade & a real PITA to hone due to flex in the blade
note the scales are 1/8 (3mm) thick acrylic


so they have been made in 1/8" but very flexible

Originally Posted by Substance

DVW,
you original design looks a lot like my Ator
it was 8/8" now just ove 7/8" (after a frown removal) and it has a 1/8" spine
so far I have not fully honed it and needs more time on the Bevel setting
it is a thin full hollow belly ground blade & a real PITA to hone due to flex in the blade
note the scales are 1/8 (3mm) thick acrylic


so they have been made in 1/8" but very flexible

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.

These things are hard to photograph. After whittling down my honey-do list, I was able to get in some grinding time. The tang is tapered and the edge is ground to the scribe lines. As I look at it, I think that I want to round the spine and do something different with the shoulder. Maybe a thumb notch is in order. Whatever I decide to do pretty much has to be done at this point though.

Looking good ! I would do some thinking on the stabilizer. Looks like it's pretty thick and after you grind the blade face down it's going to look thicker. Your not going to have much room in the heel for setting a bevel let alone the wear of time and future honing.

Originally Posted by 10Pups

Looking good ! I would do some thinking on the stabilizer. Looks like it's pretty thick and after you grind the blade face down it's going to look thicker. Your not going to have much room in the heel for setting a bevel let alone the wear of time and future honing.

I left the back thick for two reasons; first is that it would thin when I finish grinding post-heat treat. The second was that I wanted to round the spine. I agree with you on the heel. How does it look now? I rounded the spine, gave more shape to the tang and reworked the heel a bit. Also, I polished the flats for pre-heat treatment.

It's got some character now :<0) Like you say you can always grind later. You'll know when you put it to the hones. I may be totally wrong but I feel it's safer to grind as much as you can before heat treating. I mean you have to be concerned about it cracking during treat but just my way of thinking. More experienced guys can chime in any time ..........

Originally Posted by 10Pups

It's got some character now :<0) Like you say you can always grind later. You'll know when you put it to the hones. I may be totally wrong but I feel it's safer to grind as much as you can before heat treating. I mean you have to be concerned about it cracking during treat but just my way of thinking. More experienced guys can chime in any time ..........

Pups, you're probably right on all counts! especially the heat treating as the common man doesn't have access to the equiptment that the Big Boys do!

As all will see, DOVO grinds After heat treating/however as I said they have cooling etc to help! Well Experience would probably lead the list!

Dovo wmv - YouTube