Thread: Final Grind question for makers

Grinding to a measured dimension before bevel set is meaningless IMO, without knowing the contact wheel size and the blade angle relative to tangent on that wheel.

How do you do your final grinds on your razors, after heat treat, bluesman7?

Originally Posted by bluesman7

Grinding to a measured dimension before bevel set is meaningless IMO, without knowing the contact wheel size and the blade angle relative to tangent on that wheel.

Grinding wheel size is not the whole picture either, since the hollow is larger than the wheel size.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

How do you do your final grinds on your razors, after heat treat, bluesman7?

I do a bevel just short of joining with a slow moving flat belt and a taped spine. Then reduce the bevel width with a 4" contact wheel. This is on an 8/8 razor so the 4" wheel is only taking material from about 1/3 of the blade width. Spazola saw my razors at the Denver meet.

Edit; I suppose I should add that the blade center line is at 0 degrees to tangent and the bevel is at the tangent point on the 4" wheel

Originally Posted by bluesman7

I do a bevel just short of joining with a slow moving flat belt and a taped spine. Then reduce the bevel width with a 4" contact wheel. This is on an 8/8 razor so the 4" wheel is only taking material from about 1/3 of the blade width. Spazola saw my razors at the Denver meet.

Edit; I suppose I should add that the blade center line is at 0 degrees to tangent and the bevel is at the tangent point on the 4" wheel

I would love to see some of your work here in the forge section, not many can "walk the walk". Hoping to get back to the grinder myself to finish off two fixed blade razors & a regular razor I started at Charlie's. All three need a final grind touch-up.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

I would love to see some of your work here in the forge section, not many can "walk the walk".

My point is NOT that my bevels are thinner, but that the bevel width is determined by bevel angle and the thickness of the blade at the back side of the bevel.

Like some others I set the bevel then finish the grind

Originally Posted by bluesman7

My point is NOT that my bevels are thinner, but that the bevel width is determined by bevel angle and the thickness of the blade at the back side of the bevel.

None of my comments are meant in a derogatory manner, I just haven't seen any of your work & have seen the work of Bruno, spazola, Tim Zowada, and MileMarker60. They have all seen some my work here on the forum & one I have had the pleasure of spending a day in their shop. We are all craftsmen & sharing "how I do it"'s is simply a way to better our craft an personal skills. I have never had any formal bladesmith training, just the school of hard knocks. I don't have much time in the shop & forge, so I consider my time at the grinder and anvil special & I want this to show in my blades in form and function.

Edit/add: It's all about making a tool that performs as well or better than it looks for me.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

None of my comments are meant in a derogatory manner, I just haven't seen any of your work & have seen the work of Bruno, spazola, Tim Zowada, and MileMarker60. They have all seen some my work here on the forum & one I have had the pleasure of spending a day in their shop. We are all craftsmen & sharing "how I do it"'s is simply a way to better our craft an personal skills. I have never had any formal bladesmith training, just the school of hard knocks. I don't have much time in the shop & forge, so I consider my time at the grinder and anvil special & I want this to show in my blades in form and function.

Edit/add: It's all about making a tool that performs as well or better than it looks for me.

Thanks shooter, I just wanted to be clear about what I was, and wasn't, saying. Here are the two razors I have done.