Thread: One I'm working on, second attempt

Looking good so far. Please post some more progress pics as you go.

What's the reason for choosing A2?

Originally Posted by Bruno

What's the reason for choosing A2?

It was the cheap scrap that the water jet guy had in 0.250". I think I paid $50 for eight or ten blanks. It might not be ideal, in fact I'd rather have had O1 or 52100, but A2 at 60-61 should be fine.

I'd stay away from 52100 if I were you. After heat treatment it is so very abrasion resistant that grinding it becomes a real drag.
If you don't have a good belt grinder with ceramic belts, 52100 is not a good steel to work with.
and even if you have, for a razor it is really no better than O1.

But indeed, if you got a dozen blanks for 50$, that's a good deal especially.

Originally Posted by Bruno

I'd stay away from 52100 if I were you. After heat treatment it is so very abrasion resistant that grinding it becomes a real drag.
If you don't have a good belt grinder with ceramic belts, 52100 is not a good steel to work with.
and even if you have, for a razor it is really no better than O1.

But indeed, if you got a dozen blanks for 50$, that's a good deal especially.

I just upgraded to a Wilmont Grinders TAG101. I also have that 1 hp disc grinder seen here, also variable speed.

Attachment 201746

The next thing I'm going to say, please take lighthearted, because I'm saying it with a smile. I'm not overly concerned about 52100's abrasion resistance compared to O1. 95% of my knives are in CPM20CV, which is Crucible's version of B-U M390. Of course, I finish it out almost completely ground before heat treat, because at 62 rhc and 4% vanadium, it's as hard to grind as woodpecker lips. Otherwise I use 52100 and AEB-L, both of which I grind completely after heat treat. Not bad at all with ceramic belts. I wish I could find thick AEB-L, because it is actually razor blade steel and would make a great straight razor.


I love O1 though. Very fine grained and takes a super keen edge. 52100 does too though. Lots of high end kitchen knives being made in 52100 right now. I think razor guys and kitchen knife guys are about equally as crazy regarding their edges. Both know what SHARP! is. A yanagi-ba in Hitachi White steel will make you shiver it's so sharp, even coming from a straight razor frame of mind. It's that single bevel that makes it so crazy.

Originally Posted by Bruno

I'd stay away from 52100 if I were you. After heat treatment it is so very abrasion resistant that grinding it becomes a real drag.
If you don't have a good belt grinder with ceramic belts, 52100 is not a good steel to work with.
and even if you have, for a razor it is really no better than O1.

But indeed, if you got a dozen blanks for 50$, that's a good deal especially.

I just upgraded to one of the top of the line grinders made right now, a Wilmont Grinders TAG101. I also have that 1 hp disc grinder seen here, also variable speed.

Attachment 201746

The next thing I'm going to say, please take lighthearted, because I'm saying it with a smile. I'm not overly concerned about 52100's abrasion resistance compared to O1. 95% of my knives are in CPM20CV, which is Crucible's version of B-U M390. Of course, I finish it out almost completely ground before heat treat, because at 62 rhc and

I look forward to seeing your progress. For the scales, it's truly easier to start with 1/8" material than messing on thinning down knife scales...been there and done that.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

I look forward to seeing your progress. For the scales, it's truly easier to start with 1/8" material than messing on thinning down knife scales...been there and done that.

Oh yeah, absolutely. I do a lot of stacked scales on my knives, so I have a massive amount of 0.030-0.125" G10. Most of my natural material knife scales aren't long enough for razors anyway, being around 5" long or so. I make mostly smaller knives.