Thread: First edges -difficult for you?

Awesome. I had not tried this because my Grizzly is wicked fast and likely to burn/blue the thin metal, and my variable frankengrinder doesn't have a flat platen. Maybe I'll remedy this. That's why I have been doing so much work on the hones.

The other thing I might do is clean up the whole thing to a shiny/polished state if I don't keep the kurouchi in future.

Have a spray bottle with water handy... an apron and wet the belt thoroughly before every pass and focus dont let the blade stand still

One other thing... I don't think I paid attention to recalesence and just quenched from orange hot.

What makes you worry about recalesence?

I thought somebody talked about waiting until the shadows had gone from the piece before quenching (but still above magnetic). Maybe I read that wrong.

Originally Posted by Atchbo

Awesome. I had not tried this because my Grizzly is wicked fast and likely to burn/blue the thin metal, and my variable frankengrinder doesn't have a flat platen. Maybe I'll remedy this. That's why I have been doing so much work on the hones.

The other thing I might do is clean up the whole thing to a shiny/polished state if I don't keep the kurouchi in future.

Why would you need flat platen? I never us flat on the hollows. Just grind thinner and thinner on the wheel

Originally Posted by Atchbo

I thought somebody talked about waiting until the shadows had gone from the piece before quenching (but still above magnetic). Maybe I read that wrong.

I think that depends on the type of steel. For O2 i quench at an even orange

Recalescence if i understand correctly refers to the reverse temperature shift at the phase change...

In a fire you must indeed let it (shadows) JUST disappear... because once the phase changed or the shadows disappear the temperatures will climb very quickly for the same amount of heat from the outside... making grain growth...

People see the reds very differently my steel is overheated by the time i see orange... and the camera sees orange whilst i see red... or is it the other way round...

O2 is just about eutectoid... so is a bit less susceptible to overheating and carbiding i believe... 01 is hypereutectoid... but maybe check with someone who knows

I always use two layers of tape and work on diamonds to get everything right on the first hone, then go to the 1K with one layer. This of course really removes steel quick, but it's my way of skinning the cat and getting it close before I dial things in with proper stones.