Thread: A couple questions before attempting my own razor :D

Here is what I have done so far, the sketch is what the original design was but for some reason I could not get it to translate to metal so after having the original design lain out and cut I re shaped the toe of the blade for more "classic" look and easier on my mind for now. Thank you very much Bruno if I can not get any where locally I will be in touch with you for HT. I will check with Mike blue as well and see if he can lend a hand. Now just to get into the hollow grind and see what happens

Blade is just under 7/8 it is 1/4 thick and tapers to about 1/8 in at the end of the tail.

As Bruno said, it really doesn't matter how you remove the materail, leave enough meat at the edge so it won't warp at HT, and have access to a slower speed sander or wet grinder. My first was this: Sears.com for a little over $50. Made several razors that way. I am envious of having access to milling equipment...one day maybe.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

As Bruno said, it really doesn't matter how you remove the materail, leave enough meat at the edge so it won't warp at HT, and have access to a slower speed sander or wet grinder. My first was this: Sears.com for a little over $50. Made several razors that way. I am envious of having access to milling equipment...one day maybe.

A mill might be nice. I'd want one help me with tang cuts, bolsters, and carving patterns in multi layer billets.
But not before I have a heavy duty bandsaw and at least 1 more grinder

ya, a bandsaw for steel is first on my list. a second grinder is in my immediate future, you may get to see it at charlies if it's a 120v unit.

how much thicker should one leave it at the edge for a wedge grind for HT?

Most everyone who is considered a "maker" of razors grind razors at least 1/4 hollow. Wedges are just the easy way out.

I leave mine about 1.5-2mm thick, but ask whoever you are going to have heat treat. Too thin and you end up with a potato chip razor.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

As Bruno said, it really doesn't matter how you remove the materail, leave enough meat at the edge so it won't warp at HT, and have access to a slower speed sander or wet grinder. My first was this: Sears.com for a little over $50. Made several razors that way. I am envious of having access to milling equipment...one day maybe.

The mill was nice I have access to a nice set of machines at work so that helps a bit. I am no machinist but luckily we have a couple guys who are good at it that guide me. I used a 1/8 in bit to cut my blade out. In the future I will not follow my shape free hand took longer and was so hard. But fun to do

Coming to this thread late, I would suggest contacting a friend of mine who lives literally up the road from Knoxville to do your heat treating. You'll need the secret decoder ring and handshake and have to be convincingly desperate and eager in need of his help...LOL

Originally Posted by shooter74743

As Bruno said, it really doesn't matter how you remove the materail, leave enough meat at the edge so it won't warp at HT, and have access to a slower speed sander or wet grinder. My first was this: Sears.com for a little over $50. Made several razors that way. I am envious of having access to milling equipment...one day maybe.

Shooter. How was that thing for grinding? I was considering trying to hand file some blades and was trying to figure out a solution for grinding. It's obviously not ideal but I don't have money or space for a real grinder. Some of my the reviews mention the wheel wobbling a bit. Can the wheel be flattened? Is there a previous thread showing it in action?