Thread: Hollow grinder

Ok I understand what you're saying 10pups.

Thank you geezer I wasn't sure how the geometry on this machine would work it just said that it was made to do this so I thought I'd ask before jumping on it an being sol.

Bluesman7 if I may ask why did you guys all go to a belt grinder instead of the double hollow grinders ( basically what are the advantages of this)?

Thank you scottgoodman that was a helpful read I have read a lot about what people have built an are using. I just thought I might be able to use those 2 machines I showed an maybe I still can but it looks like I maybe better off just starting out with what I need an what will do the job right an in a timely fashion.

I imagine most guys end up with a belt grinder because of its versatility i.e different belt types and grit ranges are available, as well as different attachments that allow different types pf grinding (e.g. various wheels and platens). They can also be used on a variety of materials (steel, brass timber, horn) that may be encountered when making complete razors (i.e. scales, wedges, inlays etc).

A double hollow grinder is a very specialized machine that only allows one specific operation (i.e. double hollow grinding). It has its place in an industrial setting where the same operation may be done hundreds of times a day, but for an artisan it would be over capitalising on a single machine and they would still need a belt grinder (or similar) to do the other operations needed.

That makes complete since why spend money buying/ building a specialized machine that only has one function when you could buy a multipurpose tool an have all that saved money to spend on other supplies tools an materials.

So now that brings up another question do you guys start out grinding a wedge with the belt sander an the move in to hollow grinding or do you just go hollow from the beginning? Sorry I know I have a ton of reading still to do because I have other questions but this just came to mind with what you stated! Thanks again.

There are many roads to Rome and each will take a different one depending on where he starts from.

I do stock removal only (for now) and start hollowing from the beginning as I only have grinding wheels.

Other stock removal guys might grind a wedge first heat treat (to avoid warping) then hollow grind.

I would think that the guys that forge would forge to a wedge shape (as close as possible to the finished shape) and then hollow grind only.

Of course the best way to do it would be the one you are most comfortable with.

I get rid of as much metal as possible before HT. Like this;
http://straightrazorpalace.com/attac...40927small.jpg

That is a Chinese copy of a Tomek sharpening machine and it runs at 90 RPM.

Originally Posted by KsStraightShaver

Thank you Bruno for your input I just figured since it was advertised as such it would work an it would do the job just fine. As for it being slow since I'm thinking of starting out, slow would be good so I don't rush it.

10 pups do you mean that the top wheel should be 4" an the bottom should be 5"?

I also found this one what do you think of this one?

WEN- have one that I got in a bunch of tools I bought, kinda worthless IMO for razor grinding.

I have an 2"X72" Belt grinder which should be the minimum for serious grinding, an 1x30" will work but they are in the slow class almost as slow as the wen, which would burn out 2-3 motors to clean up 1 razor blank.

The Grinder for making Razors that would be interesting, has a pair of counter rotating wheels that I have seen Old Razor Grinders from the early 1900's sported.

Where are these grinders now? There has to be a few still around and WHO made them?

Blueprints of the grinders should still be found if we can find the original makers names.