Thread: forge ideas

No, the pipe doesn't have a hole in it at all. The pipe is about 1" smaller than the chamber in the forge. It shelters the blade from direct contact with the corrosive flame, and it spreads the heat out more evenly via conduction. I only do this for heat-treating. When I'm forging, I use the flame straight up.

The ITC-100 is a refractory coating that will make the forge more efficient and durable. It's not related to the pipe suggestion.

Josh

if you really want to go on the cheap I know a guy who uses yellow river clay instead of refactory
coating. this guy uses it in his cupola to melt iron for casting iron. he used it to line the bottom of the cupola and has to replace it every few times he uses the thing.

Originally Posted by beardnomore

if you really want to go on the cheap I know a guy who uses yellow river clay instead of refactory
coating. this guy uses it in his cupola to melt iron for casting iron. he used it to line the bottom of the cupola and has to replace it every few times he uses the thing.

I have been toying with and an idea like that also, I have been reading Dave Gingerys book on his charcoal foundry. He uses bentonite clay and sand to make the refactory lining.

I keep changing my mind from hand held propane torch and fire brick (s), to brake drum, to Gingery style.

I will see if I can get somthng working this weekend.

Charlie

Clay is what many charcoal or coal forges are made out of, but I don't know how well it would work for propane. For a small burner, you might not ever get the clay up to temperature. Keep in mind that a small coal forge burns a lot hotter than many propane forges ever could.

I think it would require a really long time to heat up, and you'd waste a lot of propane. You can get all the refractory supplies you need for a smallish forge for less than $50, I think. Propane is about $20 for a 20 lb. tank for me, so I'd recoup that cost in a few months.

It's worth a shot, though; I'd love to hear the results.

Josh

I made forge out of an 18 wheeler brake drum,an angle grinder, mig welder and some pipe . the air supply is from an old reversable vacum cleaner
It will melt steel if you don`t keep an eye on it
kind regards Peter

Originally Posted by bg42

I made forge out of an 18 wheeler brake drum,an angle grinder, mig welder and some pipe . the air supply is from an old reversable vacum cleaner
It will melt steel if you don`t keep an eye on it
kind regards Peter

Peter,

What do you use as fuel?

Charlie

Originally Posted by spazola

Peter,

What do you use as fuel?

Charlie

I'm guessing coal or charcoal?

Josh

I'm just starting out and I annealed my bar in te woodburner overnight (as per "greenpete") and for "forging" the tail I used a butane/propane hand held burner. I'm lost right now for the heat treatment, but I think it'll involve a hairdryer and a charcoal bed, some piping and engine oil...

Originally Posted by spazola

Peter,

What do you use as fuel?

Charlie

I use coal or coak,with regards to coal the is two types, steaming coal and coaking coal of the two coaking coal is the best to use ,there is less ash and impurities but it is very hard to get hold of ,I have one garbage bin left I t is pouring here at the moment when I get a chance I will take some pics of the forge and post them
Kind regards
Peter

Originally Posted by mastermute

I'm just starting out and I annealed my bar in te woodburner overnight (as per "greenpete") and for "forging" the tail I used a butane/propane hand held burner. I'm lost right now for the heat treatment, but I think it'll involve a hairdryer and a charcoal bed, some piping and engine oil...

You could probably get a decent heat treat with your propane burner setup, if your careful to heat the blade evenly.