Thread: Damascus Custom Set - need help please.

Originally Posted by Jasper Kade

Hi there, yeah, but given that we're talking about damascus blades here, taping the spine is part of the package anyways, so nothing lost then really - plus I'd tape the spine of any custom razor to be honest. These patterns he does are so intricate and attractive, it's gonna be hard to pick just one... but I'll manage I'm sure.

Aha, I hadn't thought of that (damascus requiring taping anyhow).


Yeah, it's gonna be hard for you.....you're a real trooper for suffering through anyhow! A true inspiration I'd say!

Well i can only speak for the spine width.
As said before... back in the days when straight razors was the norm, an 8/8 (25mm) razor would have a spine width of about 1/4 inch (7.1mm).

I would suggest you make the spine slightly more than 1/4 inch and reduce when grinding.

Originally Posted by Jasper Kade

. ...I think he's on the right track then, he does genuinely seem to know what he's talking about, it's not just marketing talk I think. As for the components of his damascus, if you say the carbon content sounds low on those components then that does kinda worry me too - I'll ask him to explain the overall carbon content on the final blades. Ultimately I reckon it should turn out well though. He's got 10 years making his own damascus so I'm sure he'll know how to best treat his steels for the purpose of shaving... interestingly he also colours his damascus.. has anyone heard of damascus being coloured before?

The carbon content merely helps judge potential hardness. The old way of making damascus (pattern welded steels, not wootz) was to mix mild steel or wrought iron and a high carbon steel. Then you end up with a medium steel that may not perform successfully as you'd like. Ten years of experience says a lot and his patterns do look good.

The coloring of steels can be done with either tempering or with chemicals. The chemical baths are in the 290 degree F range and will not create any problems with the blade hardness. Some folks will temper hardened blades severely to get the nice colors, but that has the risk of also reducing the desired end-hardness. It really depends on how well controlled the process is, and the type of steels, some have higher tempering ranges than others.

The coloration is merely an oxide on the surface of the steel. With use, this very thin layer will wear away to some degree. It is rust protective in a small fashion. Any area of the blade that is abraded, as in honing, will be subject to rusting again.

Oh! just remembered another Q - I read something somewhere about the different steels in the damascus creating a micro serrated edge, how severe is this to shaving? And is this just a reality with damascus blades? Also how can this be overcome if at all?

For all practical intents and purposes, this is a myth. Honing will remove any of the etching, hence visible, differences in the materials used in a patterned blade. At that point, the honed edge will be no different than a simple monosteel honed in the same fashion. If both materials harden, then the whole edge is subject to the microfractures and wear typical of a monosteel blade.

The micro serrated edge implies that one of the two materials in layers is softer than the other and will wear away to some degree leaving the harder material standing proud. I know only a few makers, with sufficient knowledge of heat treatment, to make a blade steel and heat treat it in such manner. It would require exquisite temperature controls and knowledge of the parent materials that is uncommon. You'd likely have a hard layer against a less hard layer rather than hard against soft.

The only other combination of materials with this potential would be a high carbon steel laminated against pure nickel. Then manipulated to create a high layer count and twisted so the former edge of billet wrapped around the outside of the bar. The nickel will not harden, but then won't necessarily wear away quicker either, it sort of smears. The pattern to do this would have to be very fine, almost to the point where it wouldn't be very attractive.

You could use a coarse abrasive at the edge, then you'd have microscopic grooves at the edge which would create a serration like effect. The subsequent damage to your skin would probably put you off shaving that way for quite a while.

A couple more two penny thoughts anyway.

Originally Posted by Jasper Kade

He says he can harden to between 60 and 65 and that he will differentially temper the blades so that the spine is more durable to knocks and bumps while the edge side of the blade is harder to retain a nice edge.. does this all sound right? I haven't heard of differentially tempered razors before, how should I direct him in this regard?
He also says he will give me some special kind of wax that will seep into the damascus to protect it over time - does this ring a bell with anyone?

If he can get the blade to harden to 60 and 65 then it has plenty of carbon. Don't worry about what he is using unless you have a special request for certain steel combinations. From the pictures you posted the guy is doing just fine. He knows his patterns and steel combinations he is going to use better than any of us here. I'm not sure why he wants to differentially temper the blade. It may be due to his heat treating technique. It doesnt really matter on a straight razor in my opion. It may leave a what some people call a temper line in the damascus, if he is using the edge quench technique like ed fowler. I don't care for it but some people like it. I have heard of people using Rennaisance wax. I'm sure there are different kinds of wax out there that different people use. Hey maybe even good ol car wax would work.

Yeah, Rennaisance Wax is what he said - told me I'd have to heat the blade and let this wax seep into the razor about once a month, but that if I didn't want to do that it would still be fine - just have to oil and take care of it like any other high carbon monosteel blade.

Guys, your assistance here is truly appreciated, and I certainly feel very confident that he'll produce some lovely razors. Can't wait to get them done now...

From what I recall, you are a graphic designer/artist or something, correct?


I can't wait to see what the blades look like that you designed!

Originally Posted by Seraphim

I wanted to chime in on the differential tempering.

I have it in my Russel Baldrdge custom razor as I wanted a hamon, which necessitates differential tempering.

Looks great! But having the spine softer than the edge menas that it will wear MUCH faster, and thus require taping the spine for honing.

Actually, Russel hardens differentially, and then -I think- tempers the whole blade. I.e. Russel doesn't differentially temper.

Hey Seraphim, yeah I'm a graphic designer, but now you got me all worried about if the design is good enough But actually I'm pretty pleased with the relative "uniqueness" of my design(geez it's tough trying to make a razor 'different'), I like the classics but wanted to give it a little something eccentric, but I'll show you guys the final set in a nice razor photo-shoot once I get them... I'm also gonna ask the maker if he could take some in-process shots of him making the razors (I always find that interesting to document, and I'm sure you guys wouldn't mind seeing some workshop photography...)

Originally Posted by Bruno

Actually, Russel hardens differentially, and then -I think- tempers the whole blade. I.e. Russel doesn't differentially temper.

Hmmm, yeah, Idon't know. All I know is that the edge is nice and hard, and the spine is not. How it got that way.... I leave that up to Mr. Baldridge

Originally Posted by Jasper Kade

Hey Seraphim, yeah I'm a graphic designer, but now you got me all worried about if the design is good enough But actually I'm pretty pleased with the relative "uniqueness" of my design(geez it's tough trying to make a razor 'different'), I like the classics but wanted to give it a little something eccentric, but I'll show you guys the final set in a nice razor photo-shoot once I get them... I'm also gonna ask the maker if he could take some in-process shots of him making the razors (I always find that interesting to document, and I'm sure you guys wouldn't mind seeing some workshop photography...)

Any sneak peeks?????

Or do we have to wait 6 months like you do?