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  1. #21
    Senior Member Big Red's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaBull View Post
    Yes, there's something really neat about sticking a piece of steel into the bowels of hell, pulling it out and then beating it into submission. I'm still undecided about whether it produces a better blade than stock removal, but the leather apron, metal tongs, anvil and hammer are satisfying tools to use in the birth of a blade.

    Sorry, for a second there reading that I thought we'd started talking about marriage.

    you guys crack me up, thanks.

    I have thought many times about getting into making edged items, knives, axes, maybe a razor. I have a drill press, 2x72 belt grinder, and plenty of other shop stuff and am never adverse to adding things to the mix, my problem is that I haven't taken the time to find out how for instance you get the grind the same on both sides of the blade (I'm sure my "eyeball" method I use for sharpening my axes on the grinder isn't proper). also setting the bevel right when using a belt. I thought a knife maker told me once he had something he could clamp on the blade that would keep it at the angle he wanted, but damned if I know what it is called or have been able to find one.

    personally I'd love to do the stock removal method to make a few hunting knives for me and buddies. some kitchen knives maybe, considering how much all mine cost anyways I might as well do a couple myself, get them exactly how I like. for instance, why must I have 6,8,10 and 12" chef's knives? why can't they be 7,9,11? hmmm....?!

    In seriousness, if somebody could point me in the right direction (shaping I'm comfortable with, I think that can't be the worst part) I might even be able to get my uncle when he gets back (it'd be a fall/winter project anyways, I'm completely booked with 50-80 hr weeks through July) to split cost with me of things I need (i.e. those specialized grinder thingies you guys have with the weird little wheels, the heat treat furnace if it's better than sending them off).

    This is the one I'd like to make a copy/version of (I'd change the handle some) Manton Knife. I'd do a regular carbon steel and would like to do one of those vinegar or vinegar/bleach etches.

    Red
    Last edited by Big Red; 06-08-2010 at 06:29 PM.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Big Red's Avatar
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    sometimes I wonder if I'm a thread killer, I post and then there's no activity? what gives guys?

  3. #23
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    That Manton knife just happens to be one challenging grind. 2 concave grinds on each side? Holy Moly Rocky! I have seen it done freehand by a friend of mine, Doc Molenaar, but it is far from easy.

    Just start grinding, ya gotta begin somewhere!
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  4. #24
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Personally, I send stuff off. I'm learning so dang much just trying to get the grind the same on both sides, what works & what doesn't, and so on. Learning how to heat treat steel is a whole other arena that it would take experience & time to learn. Even then, I recently broke a razor that I tried to "straighten". It had a little bit of a warp to it after heat treat and I learned that you can't bend 1095 after it's been thoroughly heat treated. You can however, snap 1095... There went probably 10-12 hours down the tube, but I did learn something from it. A few choice words were said, but life did go on.
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  5. #25
    "My words are of iron..."
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    Red: I found six or seven members of the Knifemaker's Guild in California. Most KMG members are good about sharing information. Perhaps a visit to one of their shops would be helpful. You could get an idea of tooling, perhaps even some pointers to help get you started, and you'd have someone you could visit when problems arose. Having a physical shop handy occupied by someone with experience, really helps smooth out the learning curve. Much more so than the internet.
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  6. #26
    Member Tbucket's Avatar
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    Can forgings be made of something other than Stainless?

  7. #27
    "My words are of iron..."
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbucket View Post
    Can forgings be made of something other than Stainless?
    Yes, stainless can be forged but it's easier to forge carbon steels.
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  8. #28
    Member Tbucket's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Blue View Post
    Yes, stainless can be forged but it's easier to forge carbon steels.
    Could you forge an SR out of carbon steel? Is there any way to treat the metal to keep it from rusting?

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbucket View Post
    Could you forge an SR out of carbon steel? Is there any way to treat the metal to keep it from rusting?
    high carbon steel is forged all the time for both knives and razors

    rust is more dependent on the finish on the blade and the care you take keeping it clean and dry/ oiled

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tbucket View Post
    Could you forge an SR out of carbon steel? Is there any way to treat the metal to keep it from rusting?
    All steels are forged at some point. I would interpret your desire as wanting to forge one by hand or with smaller-than-industrial-scale shop tooling. It's that point where forging carbon steels is much easier (more forgiving) with simple equipment.

    If you want to forge a stain resistant steel, you have to be careful with temperatures as they have a narrower range where forging will be successful or the steel will fail, and some like the near-stainless D2 will fight you the whole way even when the eye says it should be ready to hit with a hammer.

    But, with the right equipment and care taken to stay within the limits of the particular steel, it can be done. I would not recommend it for a beginner. If you're really determined however, try 12C27 or AEB-L. They are more forgiving than most of the others.

    Like Butch said, finish is very important, even for stain resistant steels. Eliminating a point for oxygen to interact with the iron is the name of the game. Passivating will help those chrome steels a lot and that is another process to learn.
    “Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to Mike Blue For This Useful Post:

    Deckard (07-19-2010)

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