Thread: Forced patina

For the most part, the patina is on there just like on an old blade... just gets there a bit quicker . There seems to be some nuance to the process that can make your patina more "permanent." You could remove it though, as you would when polishing up an old blade.

Lots of guys on the knife forums do this in an effort to make a visual effect and to give more rust protection to a carbon steel blade.

acetone can help "set" the darknes
i use it on all my logos that i want dark

has anyone tried to give the treatment of vapor of vinegar?
just put the blade hanging over a cup with vinegar in an enclosed space... day, a paint buck...?? i guess it wold be way more uniform.... also you can do with acetone if want darker....

haven't tried but there's an idea... i have used th acetone technique to gie a glossy finish to my ABS prints.. so there's where my thiking comes from...
also, i think i'll be trying to do some 3d printed scales in carbon and ABS some time.. just for exampe, for my red imp scales if they ever shrink..

I have had very good success in creating patina with either bluing or Jax Black and bleach. It seems to go along fairly well. Charlie aka Spazola has done a few videos and there are a few threads on the subject. I have never seen one using vinegar vapor though.

I get a nice mottled finish on knives, heat the blade under running hot water tap, for a minute or two, dry toughly.

Dabbing on French’s Mustard on a hot blade, with a tooth brush, and wrap in pre-cut saran wrap tightly and let it set over night.
Lightly scrub it off, with a soft tooth brush under running water and spray with WD40.

Get a little darker finish than Charlie’s. The Saran Wrap give you a mottled random finish, where the mustard is thicker in spots.

I will have to try the Acetone.

I have used mustard on 2 Moras that I bought and had fun doing it and no effect on those edges.