Thread: Straight razor - starter project

Adam, thank you for the post. I've been thinking about this post all day. I just can't seem to shake the sense that I need to do this, I guess!

What set of files will I need to do this kind of work? I have a drill press and a small bandsaw, and there's a machine shop handy if I need a bigger band, so I'm not too worried about cutting and drilling the blank. What I'm worried about is specifics.

Which steel?
Where do I buy an annealed blank of above steel?
Which files?
Where do I send for heat treating?
How thick to leave the edge before h/t?
How to taper the tang?

Stuff like that. I'm open to making a wedge at first. Seems easier to do by hand than trying to hollow. I've been trying to design a hollowing jig in my head all day.

SFShaver, you still here? Any questions you want to throw into the ring? Maybe we can go through this together.

Originally Posted by medicevans

Adam, thank you for the post. I've been thinking about this post all day. I just can't seem to shake the sense that I need to do this, I guess!

What set of files will I need to do this kind of work? I have a drill press and a small bandsaw, and there's a machine shop handy if I need a bigger band, so I'm not too worried about cutting and drilling the blank. What I'm worried about is specifics.

Which steel?
Where do I buy an annealed blank of above steel?
Which files?
Where do I send for heat treating?
How thick to leave the edge before h/t?
How to taper the tang?

Stuff like that. I'm open to making a wedge at first. Seems easier to do by hand than trying to hollow. I've been trying to design a hollowing jig in my head all day.

SFShaver, you still here? Any questions you want to throw into the ring? Maybe we can go through this together.

Maybe I can help answer some of your questions...
Which steel? Depends on whether you want high-carbon or stainless. You might start with either 1095 or O-1, or go up to CM154 or other stainless steels.
Where do I buy an annealed blank? Google "Jantz supply".
Which files? You'll need an assortment, kind of like asking which sandpaper you'll need to make scales... Again, look at Jantz.
How thick to leave edge before H/T? You'll want a coarse edge, basically you'll need to finish all your shaping, because after H/T you won't be able to shape with files, you'll need a grinder or stones. One test in fact of a good H/T is if you drag a file, it won't scratch the blade because it's now harder than the file. Thus, you'll need something harder to remove steel and that falls to stones, ceramics, or diamonds basically.
Taper the tang? I would think a grinder or you could do it with a file.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by medicevans

Adam, thank you for the post. I've been thinking about this post all day. I just can't seem to shake the sense that I need to do this, I guess!

What set of files will I need to do this kind of work? I have a drill press and a small bandsaw, and there's a machine shop handy if I need a bigger band, so I'm not too worried about cutting and drilling the blank. What I'm worried about is specifics.

Which steel? CPM154 is a good stainless or O-1 for simple carbon.
Where do I buy an annealed blank of above steel? Jantz Supply is awesome. They will have everything you need.
Which files? i use a Magicut File for fast stock removal and a milling file for smoothing after before moving to wet/dry paper. With the milling file as the magicut marks are removed, starting pressing more lightly and you will leave a smoother surface. A half round file will help with curves {mine is a bastard cut} and a checking file is great for jimping.
Where do I send for heat treating? Can't answer in detail as i am in Australia. However i have heard Paul Bos is reliable.
How thick to leave the edge before h/t? Depends on carbon or stainless. carbon maybe 1/16". Stainless in a vacuum treat i go down to about 1/32". Take the time to get all scratches out before heat treating to make life easy. Be patient. i go to a 1000 grit finish. After heat treat in a vacuum i have only a light oxide coat to remove so i start again at 400 grit and work through a progression to 2000.
How to taper the tang? Use what you have. A file will do it.

Stuff like that. I'm open to making a wedge at first. Seems easier to do by hand than trying to hollow. I've been trying to design a hollowing jig in my head all day.

SFShaver, you still here? Any questions you want to throw into the ring? Maybe we can go through this together.

Patience and attention to detail make all the difference. Finish all shaping, drilling, filework, etc before heat treat. After heat treat it should only be hand rubbing to surface finish, then whack on a strip of tape to protect the spine finish and hit the stones.
Have fun.
Adam.

Does the steel shrink a little bit when it gets heat treated?

Here're the files I have picked out so far from Jantz.


#CTN07894 Magicut File 8"
Price: $9.95

#CTN08642 Mill File 10" Bastard Cut
Price: $7.95

#CTN08673 Mill File 10" Second Cut
Price: $10.95

#CTN08704 Mill File 10" Smooth Cut
Price: $11.50

And this steel: XF1610 O-1 Tool Steel 1/4 x 1 x 18

Originally Posted by medicevans

Does the steel shrink a little bit when it gets heat treated?

You will lose some dimensionality due to decarburisation unless you take precautions to protect the surface or choose a ht method that avoids this drawback. Decarb is soft as s**t and must come off the width, its not much but could be easily 0,2 mm.
The final hone width should be 3 1/2 times that of the spine idealy. My advice go greater than this ratio pre ht, this will give you some wriggle room at final grind to zero in on the magical 16 degrees.
Decarb can be a potential pitfall with forging as well as other things associated with thermal cycling so need to know your stuff if forging.
By the way steel stock is forged, there are pros and cons to both methods just pointing out that there is no functional advantage to either.