Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 41 to 45 of 45
Like Tree26Likes

Thread: My first forge/ attempt at making a razor

  1. #41
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,130
    Thanked: 5229
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wynndow View Post
    O1 makes great blades but if not HTed properly it you can end up with a blade that's not as good as it should be.
    Possibly. But otoh O1 is very easy to do, and if you are not paranoid about getting half point rockwell hardness predictability, it is pretty much foolproof.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  2. #42
    Member: Swerve Swerve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Elliston, Va.
    Posts
    268
    Thanked: 13

    Default

    Thanks for letting me know that's probably what I'll do. Now witch way do you winch the 01 also do you have to quench frequently, or just when it's done, or if you don't get finished one day do you quench and then work on it later then quench when you are done, or is it like a every so many soaks type thing? That's my biggest question about forging
    Also when tempering what's the degree-color to heat to? Thanks everyone for your help/info/ideas.
    Thank you,
    Swerve

  3. #43
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,130
    Thanked: 5229
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    Here is the usual process.

    - forge to shape
    - anneal
    - grind / file
    - heat treatment (quenching)
    - tempering (straw color)
    - more grinding / sanding / polishing

    If you only do stock removal, the bar will already be fully annealed and you can start grinding and filing immediately. If you forge, than the workpiece will be partially hardened because of the deformation and heating cycles. so then you need to anneal before doing the filing and preliminary grinding. Leve at least 1/16 of thickness near the edge before heat treatment, or you will risk warping or decarburizing the blade.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  4. #44
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Shreve, Ohio
    Posts
    229
    Thanked: 68

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    Possibly. But otoh O1 is very easy to do, and if you are not paranoid about getting half point rockwell hardness predictability, it is pretty much foolproof.
    Not to diverge from the topic and get into a metallurgy argument but I'll have to respectfully disagree. O1 can easily be overheated which cause grain growth blah blah blah. Its best done in a controlled environment so you can get the proper temperature and soak time.

    As far as the quenching goes which if I understand what your asking you don't quench the blade throughout the process. The quenching is when you have the blade ready to be heat treated. The quenching is what makes the steel hard.

    Bruno has the outline of the process above.

  5. #45
    Member: Swerve Swerve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Elliston, Va.
    Posts
    268
    Thanked: 13

    Default

    Ok thank you
    Thank you,
    Swerve

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •