Thread: The correct Blade hardness 01 for razors

Originally Posted by GVIkzn

Very interested in holding time during hardening

I hold at 1500 for about 15 minutes for O1.

Charlie

Thank you!
The required hardness has, but the razor edge crumble. After tempering the hardness is markedly reduced, but the crumbling remains. I can not understand why

1)Process 2)Temperature 3)Holding time 4)Environment

1)annealing 2) ...... 3)...... 4)....
1)normalization 2)...... 3)...... 4).....
1)quenching 2)1500F 3) 15 min 4)Oil????
1)temper 2) 400F 3) 2 * 1 hour 4) air


Do you have something to add?
I would be very grateful.
For many, this information will be useful

Any feelings out there on what specifically to quench in? All the knives I've done are in 1095 and quenched in warmed vegi.

Originally Posted by jcline

Any feelings out there on what specifically to quench in? All the knives I've done are in 1095 and quenched in warmed vegi.

I have not understood all, sorry
what do you mean"vegi"?
This vegetable oil

Originally Posted by GVIkzn

Do you have something to add?
I would be very grateful.
For many, this information will be useful

You will need to be more specific.

A. What do you use to work on your steel? A forge or kiln? What oil do you use to quench?

By 1)quenching 2)1500F 3) 15 min 4)Oil???? I presume you mean Hardening or Austenizing.

Since the terms in English I have a problem. I hope for understanding
"Hardening" think properly
Using a gas forge, cooling after tempering in the engine oil.
Little studied literature and the internet, starting to realize my mistakes
I think that soon, on the basis of their search for information, and your help, we get to the truth
Later update my table

GVIkzn, check the heat treating video that Charlie posted in this Forum for Annealing and Normalizing information.

Thank you!
I looked already. Useful information found.
I just wanted to find the error and generalize all the information for all.
When I made the right heat treatment, I will share information, of course. This path is very long.
thanks to all

First, the blade must be properly normalized and spherodize annealed. Then,

If using a gas forge, for O-1:

1. Heat to 1500F - All "shadows" are gone. No soak at temperature. It is too easy to overheat in a forge. This is why I would prefer 1084 or 1095 over O-1 in a forge.
2. Immediatly quench in warm (160F) oil (Park AAA) - rapid agitation of blade.
3. Interrupt quench when blade reaches about 400F (pseudo martemper)
4. Air Cool to room temperature.
5. Temper at 380F two times.

With my salt bath stuff:

1. Austenize in salts 1490F, 10 minutes at temperature.
2. Quench in 420F Salt, 30 seconds rapid agitation
3.Air cool to room temperature
4.Temper 350F 1 hour
5. Freeze in Liquid Nitrogen - 1 hour, warm slowly
6. Temper 350 - 1 hour
7. Temper 350 1 hour

Everything I know about heat treating, I learned from Mike Blue. Mike, if I get this wrong, or left anything out, feel free to correct me. With Salt, hold a 1490 for 10-15 minutes. Quench in 380 degree salt for 1-2 hours. Cool in still air. You are done.