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04-12-2013, 03:28 AM #11
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The Following User Says Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:
GVIkzn (04-12-2013)
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04-12-2013, 05:11 AM #12
Thank you!
The required hardness has, but the razor edge crumble. After tempering the hardness is markedly reduced, but the crumbling remains. I can not understand why
1)Process 2)Temperature 3)Holding time 4)Environment
1)annealing 2) ...... 3)...... 4)....
1)normalization 2)...... 3)...... 4).....
1)quenching 2)1500F 3) 15 min 4)Oil????
1)temper 2) 400F 3) 2 * 1 hour 4) air
Do you have something to add?
I would be very grateful.
For many, this information will be usefulLast edited by GVIkzn; 04-12-2013 at 05:17 AM.
If something is unclear in the text, please correct me ......
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04-12-2013, 06:07 AM #13
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Location
- Oakland
- Posts
- 21
Thanked: 1Any feelings out there on what specifically to quench in? All the knives I've done are in 1095 and quenched in warmed vegi.
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04-12-2013, 06:54 AM #14
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04-12-2013, 03:26 PM #15
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04-12-2013, 03:50 PM #16
Since the terms in English I have a problem. I hope for understanding
"Hardening" think properly
Using a gas forge, cooling after tempering in the engine oil.
Little studied literature and the internet, starting to realize my mistakes
I think that soon, on the basis of their search for information, and your help, we get to the truth
Later update my tableIf something is unclear in the text, please correct me ......
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04-12-2013, 04:57 PM #17
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Corcoran, Minnesota
- Posts
- 665
Thanked: 170GVIkzn, check the heat treating video that Charlie posted in this Forum for Annealing and Normalizing information.
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04-12-2013, 05:12 PM #18
Thank you!
I looked already. Useful information found.
I just wanted to find the error and generalize all the information for all.
When I made the right heat treatment, I will share information, of course. This path is very long.
thanks to allIf something is unclear in the text, please correct me ......
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04-12-2013, 05:26 PM #19
First, the blade must be properly normalized and spherodize annealed. Then,
If using a gas forge, for O-1:
1. Heat to 1500F - All "shadows" are gone. No soak at temperature. It is too easy to overheat in a forge. This is why I would prefer 1084 or 1095 over O-1 in a forge.
2. Immediatly quench in warm (160F) oil (Park AAA) - rapid agitation of blade.
3. Interrupt quench when blade reaches about 400F (pseudo martemper)
4. Air Cool to room temperature.
5. Temper at 380F two times.
With my salt bath stuff:
1. Austenize in salts 1490F, 10 minutes at temperature.
2. Quench in 420F Salt, 30 seconds rapid agitation
3.Air cool to room temperature
4.Temper 350F 1 hour
5. Freeze in Liquid Nitrogen - 1 hour, warm slowly
6. Temper 350 - 1 hour
7. Temper 350 1 hour
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Tim Zowada For This Useful Post:
Deckard (04-16-2013), GVIkzn (04-12-2013), Maximilian (04-12-2013), randydance062449 (04-16-2013), spazola (04-12-2013)
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04-12-2013, 05:59 PM #20
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Corcoran, Minnesota
- Posts
- 665
Thanked: 170Everything I know about heat treating, I learned from Mike Blue. Mike, if I get this wrong, or left anything out, feel free to correct me. With Salt, hold a 1490 for 10-15 minutes. Quench in 380 degree salt for 1-2 hours. Cool in still air. You are done.
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The Following User Says Thank You to skipnord For This Useful Post:
GVIkzn (04-12-2013)