Thread: OT - DE razor question.

Sorry, This is a little off topic. I just bought a merkur adjustable DE razor today at an antique store for $12cad. It's going into my travel kit.

I've got one question about it, what is the "adjustable" bit for? I see I can adjust the angle of the razor in relation to the comb, but what's the point of this?
Don't you just adjust the entire body in relation to your face?


http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/st...l.html?s=CC570

Oh yeah. I also had my first shave with a DE today, with the new heavy duty merkur that arrived in the mail. My cheeks were baby soft and had a fantastic shave. I ripped my neck to shreds though. Blood everywhere. I need to learn to slow down and relax a little more.

I don't own that razor but traditionally the adjustment increases or decreases the amount of blade exposure, making it sortof more and more like a straight if you will. There are two safety bars above and below the blade of a DE and they separate as the settings get higher. DEs are not as smooth as a straight so you gotta be careful with them. They will nick you all over if your not easy with them.

Never shaved with a DE. Before going straight I shaved with a track two and before that a schick injectable. I am curious about the DE. This is good info.

When using a DE use no added pressure, allow
the weight of the razor to do the work.
Check out www.classicshaving.com Click on the
How to and Why button. This will give lots of
info on the proper use of the DE.


Regards,


Terry

Originally Posted by sshack

Sorry, This is a little off topic. I just bought a merkur adjustable DE razor today at an antique store for $12cad. It's going into my travel kit.

I've got one question about it, what is the "adjustable" bit for? I see I can adjust the angle of the razor in relation to the comb, but what's the point of this?
Don't you just adjust the entire body in relation to your face?


http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/st...l.html?s=CC570

Sshack,

The Progress is a highly popular adjustable Merkur. I'm assuming you have given it a thorough cleaning and "sterilizing". A couple of things to be aware of with the Progress. When you disassemble it to install a blade, there is a proper way to put it back together. Look at it from the side. On the razor head you should see a triangle and a vertical line. The vertical line (l) should be directly over the triangle. If you don't have them on the same side, remove the top and flip it around. Once you have them in alignment, tighten the razor until it is snug. One thing the Progress is notorious for is manufacturing "tolerances". Towards the bottom of the razor handle, you will find a "dimple". Ideally, when the razor is properly assembled, the lowest setting (minimum blade exposure) of 1 should be directly below the dimple. Unfortunately, due to those "tolerances", this is not always the case. 1 is the lowest setting and 5 is the highest setting. Whether things are in perfect alignment or not, the blade exposure changes the same amount as you progress to larger numbers. If you are new to DE shaving, you may want to start on 2 or 3. The higher the number, the more blade is exposed. On 1, you may not hear and sound from the razor as you shave. On 5, you will hear a "scraping" sound, and without proper technique of angle, you will feel the scrape.

I've recently acquired a Progress, but have not worked with the different adjustments. I have it set on 3 and have left it there. There is no clear consensus with adjustables as to whether you should start with a lower setting and increase exposure as you make more passes, of whether you start with a high setting and lower exposure as you go. This is something you'll have to decide for yourself. There are lots of good threads at www.shavemyface.com and www.badgerandblade.com for DE users.

RT

Now this is fantastic information. Exactly the sort of thing I wanted to know.

I soaked it in rubbing alcohol for 10 minutes or so. Is this good enough?

As for the adjustable bit, I hadn't paid attention to the notch, but had it in the right way. Mine lines up nicely.

I'm going to try shaving with the progress set on 1 tomorrow.
Also, I wonder, does anyone know when the progress was first released? Is there any way to figure out how old your model is? I'd love to know if this was built in 1910 or 1990.

Sshack,

First, do you have a name? I give my razors a scrub with Soft Scrub with Bleach (the bleach is already in the product) and an old toothbrush. Then I boil them for at least 10 minutes. Not a rolling boil, but on the high side of medium high. Then I give them a short alcohol soak. And just to be on the safe side, I finish with a good spray of Clippercide (made by Barbicide and available online or I got mine at Sally's Beauty Supply). Since the Progress has a plastic knot, when I boiled mine I made sure that then handle rested on the top piece, keeping the plastic from touching the pan.

I don't know the history of the Progress, or if it has any identifying marks. You might try contacting Merkur for that.

For the shave, after your first pass on 1, completely rinse your face and dry it off. Rub your fingers up and down. Check the results. If you feel they are very limited, increase up to 3. I don't know your shaving history, but here are a couple of thoughts. If this is your first DE shave, be sure that you understand the direction of your beard growth. Many say they shave "N-S", but in reality, that may mean that part of the shave is against the grain. You don't want that. Half of my first pass is N-S, the other half is S-N. If you are new, do two passes, both with the grain. It won't be your best shave, but your face will need to adjust to the razor. This should help eliminate the irritation issue. My shave consists of three passes, with the grain, across the grain and finally against the grain. I do this with a DE and I do it with a straight.

RT

I'm Steve.

I've been going with "shave with the grain", rather than any specific directions.
For me, that's front to back on my face. bottom to top on my neck.

I shaved with the progress tonight and set it on 1 and 3. 1 gave the best shave. (little to no drag, no feeling like i'm going to nick myself). I'll stick with 1 for now. I may even switch to the progress.

I have a feeling I'll be using the straight on just my face for a long time before I risk my neck with it.

As for cleaning razors, I think I can add a bleach and boil to my routine easily.
I don't have clippercide and postal services charge an arm and a like to ship to canada. So I doubt I'll buy any soon, I've spent my wad already...

except tomorrow I'll probably buy a strop so I can have my first straight razor shave.

Cheers!

Steve,

Just a comment on DE's vs Straight razors...I'll have to say I love the shave my Merkur DE's give me (especially the the Classic, Classic HD, and 1904) but it does seem easier to me to nick myself with them compared to my TI straight razor. I find them actually a little less forgiving than my TI. I can get away with going over the same area much more with my straight vs the DE's. That said, I can get outstanding shaves with both, but maybe a more comfortable shave with the TI. In other words, it seems "easier" to shave closer with the straight razor.

Tom