Thread: How I'm Sterilizing My Razors

Originally Posted by Str8Shooter

No


Correct per medical education.. There are Hep A, B, C, D, E,and G. No F.

All that being said, if you are restoring a razors, the gringding and polishing will remove anything on the blade. Dont share blades. Do clean old scales.
Remember.... If it's wet and not your's, don't touch it!!!
Paul

Okay, my bad on the survivability, but the 3% Hydrogen Peroxide is correct though. Says so right on the side of the box.

Crap!! I've never cleaned any "new" razor.. Just started honing, too :/ better invest in some barbicide wipes. Are they good to use on old scales, too? What about hone sanitation? Thanks

Hone or strop? If it's a honing stone, pour some boiling water over it and let it sit for a while to cool off. If it's a strop you'll destroy it if you try to sanitize it using any methods we've described here. Leather does not take kindly to anything besides leather treatments and oil. If you're really concerned about the strop leave it for 3 months, or keep using it and just wipe your blade down with barbicide wipes after each stropping.

Originally Posted by KrazieSj

Hone or strop? If it's a honing stone, pour some boiling water over it and let it sit for a while to cool off. If it's a strop you'll destroy it if you try to sanitize it using any methods we've described here. Leather does not take kindly to anything besides leather treatments and oil. If you're really concerned about the strop leave it for 3 months, or keep using it and just wipe your blade down with barbicide wipes after each stropping.

Caution on the boiling water over the hones.

Not all rocks are equal and since some are glued
there is a risk of having the glue fail. And pouring
water over a rock is not sufficient because the
rock is porous and there is a need to get the
heat down into pours. Some rocks and some
hones might crack under the thermal shock..

A possible solution for those that need
to sanitize would be the ceramic Spyderco
hones. I would see no problem putting
them in a pressure cooker (autoclave).

For the strop the best strategy is to always
dip a razor in Barbicide for 10 min (read
product directions) before stropping and
again after stropping. i.e. do not let the strop
get contaminated.

Another solution is the Feather razor where
the blades are individual use and the holder
is designed to be sanitized. i.e. no hones
or strops at home. And the Feather shaves well....

Another strategy might be to use "mouthwash"
to wet your water hones. Just be sure to
rinse and slow air dry them fully after. Products
in the "Listerine" class have Antiseptic properties.
They do work well on barber hones and are handy
and easy to find in the bathroom.

This is a difficult topic. Health departments have
all but regulated straight razors out of barber shops
for this. And dentists have astounding regulations....

Me I do not share my toothbrush and I do not
share my razors.

Never thought about the glue coming undone.

That's why you're the mentor and I'm the guy trying to learn everything I can from you guys.

Also note some hones like the Norton 8k are
bound with a resin. Without knowing what the
resin is it is unclear if it can take the heat.

Sintered hones and fired hones like the older
barber hones should be more tolerant.

Shale and slate hones would be less tolerant
than the Arkansas novaculite hones.

Invest in a box of Barbicide wipes or
a gallon of the concentrated Barbicide
solution.... and clean the blade before
and after.

Do not forget to lightly oil the blade
after.