Thread: 1st hone a 12k??

Originally Posted by Siguy

Honing my vintage razors(no wedges yet, mostly hollows) also gives me pause. Why? Because I have no idea how they were originally honed. Tape, no tape, etc. Any advice here?

You are over thinking it,,, The easiest way to learn honing is to learn to refresh edges then work your way down the line, nobody likes to do that any longer and wants to jump into the deep end...
Start with doing the easiest and then slowly expand from there

Now if your objective is to hit E-bay and Antiques stores and the like then you are underhoned and you need a Bevel setter, and a way to sharpen -polish..

This is the latest version of this article

http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...ml#post1148199

Overthinking is probably spot on. Probably due to information overload.

Thanks for being patient and the direction, Glen.

Originally Posted by Siguy

Overthinking is probably spot on. Probably due to information overload.

Thanks for being patient and the direction, Glen.

No prob, in case it wasn't obvious I actually love the hobby hehehe

If I have the answer I will freely give it

I normally recommend that new guys start off with chromium oxide or .5 diamond spray or paste when they have shave ready razors that need refreshing. I have found that 4-7 light pressure strokes followed by a normal stropping will usually bring the razor back to a nice shaver. When this quits working, then I recommend a finishing stone like the 12K using again, 4-7 light X strokes followed by the chromium oxide or diamond media and then a normal stopping. You can almost maintain a razor in good condition indefinitely like this.

The DMT 325 is a great all around lapping or cleaning product and can be used for just about every stone I have encountered.

Obviously, if you are going to start honing beaters, then you need to look at more stones and find the method that will produce the most repeatable results for you. Most of the synthetic stones work great with no slurry, but using a slurry is a personal preference and if you are inclined, it should not be problematic. In my opinion, there is not much benefit from using the slurry either in time or results, but YMMV. As for using tape or not, again personal preference comes into play in my opinion unless you just have a ton of metal to remove or are protecting a pretty spine or Damascus type pattern, it really isn't necessary.

Recognize that honing like shaving is a learned process and start off simple. The more you over think or push yourself to frustration, the harder it is. Build and learn on what works and what doesn't work for you and be patient. There is a ton of great information here.

Have fun.

Hmmm...

I'm JaNortoning right now. I have a 5/8 that was honed with a 4/8k Norton and it is a terrific shaver and another pro-honed. That all gets taken care of with CrOx and stropping. All "new" razors to me come from 'tique stores.

I could always add a 12k later.... Hmmmm...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Yes

I only wish I had been lead to a nice Naniwa SS 12k back in 1981 it would have made the next 20+ years soooooooo much easier

Keep in mind and I only say this because it is possible, that 12k and an Artificial Prep Stone used diligently can do everything but set a Heavy Bevel, honest I kid you not.. Even if you only use it as a maintenance hone it is well worth the money

After hours of video, thread, etc., Glen, I finally understand what you're talking about regarding the use of the nagura to put a slury on a stone and more aggressive hone at a lower level than you're stone's "default value" ala the "One stone hone" approach.

Sounds like a really simple concept, but I had no knowledge on the topic so no frame of reference. In addition, there is no Magic hone.

For now, what can be immediately useful for me would be the 12k and a nagura given the current state of my razors. If I pick up any more 'tiques/beaters, they may have to wait for another stone...

Originally Posted by Siguy

I've got a 400 grit piece of 3M wet/dry glued to a 2x4. You think that will work for lapping, guys?

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dude, don't do it!

Not flat enough. Also you can't use a whole sheet of sandpaper on a 2x4. Get a big piece of heavy glass, or a 12" polished stone floor tile. You can hold the tile at an angle to an overhead light and see if it is flat, because straight lines will reflect curved lines if it is not flat. But usually the polished marble tiles are nice and flat. Heavy glass works great. The sink cutout from a polished granite counter top is popular. And there are granite lapping plates sold by woodworking supply sites that are rated and calibrated flat to the nth degree and are not that expensive. The plate can do double duty as a plate for honing on lapping film, too. And you can use it with sandpaper to lap your balsa strops flat. Sometimes they warp from moisture or age.

@Tulaneboy,

I think you missed a couple posts Also, I was semi-joking about the 2x4, btw. I know it may not have been clear. Thanks for your post.