Thread: Honing set up

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Not uncommon at all. Read some of the Naniwa threads .

2 things come to mind.
1. Bevel not right
2. Too many laps & edge has a wire you remove with 60 laps on CrO. Seems a lot of CrO to me .

Well...

- Yes, I have gone to my c12k and messed up my edge
- No, I have never proceeded with my messed up edge anyway and gone "hog wild" with a pasted strop

Interesting. But hey, if it worked and your face is happy...

With respect to the c12k (and note i don't know if this is good advice or not, so I hope others pipe up.); after lapping mine, I wasn't getting the best results either. So out of desperation, I put a touch, and I mean a touch, of cooking oil on it. It worked for me.

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Well it worked out. I'm BBS smooth two razors two days in a row. I will revisit starting from bevel an progressing through finishing this week as I may be acquiring another razor in a few days.

So I guess I'll have to see.

As for the C12K I will say this. My razors are the sharpest they've been yet and I can't deny that the only thing I did different was use that stone in addition to my normal progression.

I did however use a small diamond hone that's about 600 grit to make a slurry on my C12K and that helped a lot.

As for the pasted strop... How many laps should it take? Because essentially I'm going from ~12k to ~30k so wouldn't that require quite a few laps to work out the "scratches" left behind from the 12k?

Personally, I think the 600 is a good start on the lapping, but I would run something smoother on it afterward.

As for laps on the CrOx - I only do laps on my crox strop when my edge begins to degrade. When that happens, its usually under 10 laps.

If I have waited too long and those eight to ten laps don't work, I'll run the blade on some diamond paste and the about 4 laps on the CrOx.

It works for me...

Originally Posted by earcutter

Personally, I think the 600 is a good start on the lapping, but I would run something smoother on it afterward.

As for laps on the CrOx - I only do laps on my crox strop when my edge begins to degrade. When that happens, its usually under 10 laps.

If I have waited too long and those eight to ten laps don't work, I'll run the blade on some diamond paste and the about 4 laps on the CrOx.

It works for me...

Gotta say I love that everyone has a flexible opinion.

I dig the "this is what worked for me so give it a whirl and adjust to your needs" mentality mos gents have on here.

Originally Posted by ncraigtrn

Gotta say I love that everyone has a flexible opinion.

I dig the "this is what worked for me so give it a whirl and adjust to your needs" mentality mos gents have on here.

There is more than one way to skin a cat lol!! I am just stoked that you're getting good shaves !!

Originally Posted by earcutter

There is more than one way to skin a cat lol!! I am just stoked that you're getting good shaves !!

I bet you're not as stoked as me!!! [emoji106]

Originally Posted by ncraigtrn

I bet you're not as stoked as me!!! [emoji106]

Where in SoCal are you located? I'm in OC.

If we can get together you can try my set of Nani's. Not cheap but then again they are simple to use and I don't have to keep buying stones. Save up get them one at a time you won't regret it.

Re the slurry making with diamond plates. Guys use everything from the DMT 325 up to the Atoma 1200.
The key as with most things razor is a light touch so you don't tear chunks out of the surfaces & have them rolling around in the slurry.

I rarely use pastes as a final solution. I use them before my finisher mostly but IIRC Lynn was using only single figure laps with diamond on felt so 60 is kinda BIG .
You do not need to use pastes to remove scratches in the bevel at end game. At that point the edge needs very little to make or break.

to much on pasted strops turns the edge from a V shape to a more concave shape whcih means that a tatch up on your 12 K probebly won't work

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Re the slurry making with diamond plates. Guys use everything from the DMT 325 up to the Atoma 1200.
The key as with most things razor is a light touch so you don't tear chunks out of the surfaces & have them rolling around in the slurry.

I rarely use pastes as a final solution. I use them before my finisher mostly but IIRC Lynn was using only single figure laps with diamond on felt so 60 is kinda BIG .
You do not need to use pastes to remove scratches in the bevel at end game. At that point the edge needs very little to make or break.

I am a huge fan of the statement you made that I emboldened in your post. "Light" is key.

With respect to the c12k - making a slurry on mine, I have found is counter productive. Just a little bit of slurry from anything relatively "course" like a 600 diamond plate releases particles big enough to ruin the edge I am looking for.

This is why I put just a touch of oil on mine. I find it holds the stone together just enough more to stop any rogue particles from dislodging - if that makes sense??

Doing so slows my stone down though - I am OK with that !

Originally Posted by earcutter

I am a huge fan of the statement you made that I emboldened in your post. "Light" is key.

With respect to the c12k - making a slurry on mine, I have found is counter productive. Just a little bit of slurry from anything relatively "course" like a 600 diamond plate releases particles big enough to ruin the edge I am looking for.

This is why I put just a touch of oil on mine. I find it holds the stone together just enough more to stop any rogue particles from dislodging - if that makes sense??

Doing so slows my stone down though - I am OK with that !

I'll take that into consideration.