Thread: Hard Arkansas

Originally Posted by Wid

I would go with a black. A trans might be to big of a jump from 8k

What would be the approximate grit rating of a translucent Arky?

For instance like the one in Jollo's post?

Originally Posted by Phrank

What would be the approximate grit rating of a translucent Arky?

For instance like the one in Jollo's post?

Giving a grit rating to a natural stone is somewhat missleading, the grit varies from stone to stone. Lets just say that particular stone falls into the finisher categories.

It's all about the prep. That stone has probably seen years of steel and been well taken care of.

So it is glass smooth and ready to finish a razor.

Kind of like worn wet and dry, it may be 1k grit but will finish like 1500, who cares what the grit is?

Originally Posted by Euclid440

It's all about the prep. That stone has probably seen years of steel and been well taken care of.

So it is glass smooth and ready to finish a razor.

Kind of like worn wet and dry, it may be 1k grit but will finish like 1500, who cares what the grit is?

Just trying to put a place for a stone like this in my head...so is it a finisher, like an Escher of Nani...or somewhere down the line....didn't quite understand your response, glass smooth I understand, but you lost me on the worn wet and dry part. Could you expand a little....

Both Martin and Marty are correct Phrank. When it comes to hones, naturals in particular but also many Barber hones, it's not the size of the grit that matters but rather the Density of the grit. The "Fine" Arkansas stones like the translucent are rated quite low in grit size, BUT they are extremely dense and hard! As are most 'dense Novaculite' hones, like the harder LI's or CF's from England for example.

They will produce a highly polished edge but they do require many laps to get the desired results...similar to your harder Zulus or Chinese stones. I have a very nice vintage Norton translucent that performs wonderfully but requires about 150+++ laps to get the job done. Most folks prefer to use oil...I use water and dish soap on mine.

Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Both Martin and Marty are correct Phrank. When it comes to hones, naturals in particular but also many Barber hones, it's not the size of the grit that matters but rather the Density of the grit. The "Fine" Arkansas stones like the translucent are rated quite low in grit size, BUT they are extremely dense and hard! As are most 'dense Novaculite' hones, like the harder LI's or CF's from England for example.

They will produce a highly polished edge but they do require many laps to get the desired results...similar to your harder Zulus or Chinese stones. I have a very nice vintage Norton translucent that performs wonderfully but requires about 150+++ laps to get the job done. Most folks prefer to use oil...I use water and dish soap on mine.

OK - thanks...so last stupid question...where would a stone like this fit into a honing progression? Reason I ask is there is one similar in an old shop not far from here...

Originally Posted by Phrank

OK - thanks...so last stupid question...where would a stone like this fit into a honing progression? Reason I ask is there is one similar in an old shop not far from here...

Finisher= last stone.

It is a final final finisher or polisher if you will...depending on your hone progression set-up it would follow your 8K-12K for a really finely polished edge. HOWEVER...if you have an Escher (Particularly for folks like you and me that like the old Sheffield steel!) that would be all you ever need. Although I have finished many a blade on the Arkie, many Sheffield's included, I prefer the much softer feel of the Escher. Even if I put a wicked sharp edge on a blade with an Arkie or a JNAT, I will always finish up with a few strokes on the Escher to soften the feel of the edge...using only water of course.

This is as always MHO!

Originally Posted by Phrank

Just trying to put a place for a stone like this in my head...so is it a finisher, like an Escher of Nani...or somewhere down the line....didn't quite understand your response, glass smooth I understand, but you lost me on the worn wet and dry part. Could you expand a little....

Phrank, I used to work in the auto body trade and we used a lot of wet and dry sandpaper. As a sandpaper wears, it losses it's cutting power as the particles 'wear down' and slowly become less efficient. So in effect it slowly goes up in grits. What was a 220 slowly works it's way to perhaps a 400-600. When I found that the paper wasn't cutting, I'd change paper with the exception of when sanding for final prep before painting and then I'd use it until it was almost useless.

I hope this makes sense.

Sorry I was late to the party with my explanation.

Just got back from Dans , met Dan and his son Sherlen got a tour and quite a few stories oh and picked up a super looking black Ark ,,my friend Glen is going to have a laugh at this, he knows I dont hone , heck he's had my Zulu for a few months ,but I couldn't help myself , if you get a chance this is a great stop while out on your bike, very nice people. And their history is fun to listen to. Dans a very interesting man. I'll get some pics up after I get in from the rally. Tc