Thread: Straight Razor Hell

I'm struggerling to understand what's going on in that picture....... Has that razor had the matrix treatment?......remember there is no razor!

Originally Posted by mike1011

I'm struggerling to understand what's going on in that picture....... Has that razor had the matrix treatment?......remember there is no razor!

here the bevel imperfection, that one has nothing to do with the spine or the bevel it is a thin spot in the grind where the wheel/belt dug slightly deeper

Just based on my own learning experiences, my early problems were too much pressure and not enough time working the slurry down on the jNats. This doesn't mean you have the same problem, but trying some substantially different techniques may help you identify if technique is an issue.

When you get to the JNats, try a very thin slurry raised with little pressure. You should not be able to feel any particles with a fingertip or the razor. Reduce the pressure by at least a half and double your stroke count, reducing pressure to near zero at the end - the stage when you are basically polishing. I start on the JNats with finger pressure, about what you'd use if you were wiping a surface with a fingertip to see if it were dusty. I typically use 40 circle ellipse at finger pressure, then reduce pressure through 40 more single sided strokes. Numbers are arbitrary in a given situation of course, but you should feel the slurry break at about 20-30 in the ellipse stage. It will start feeling very smooth. Keep the slurry wet.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Wow just wow


Starting at the beginning

"Not a Replica" this is the Hart made razor correct ???

Blue Steel "Not a Replica" Men's Straight Blade Razor - Baxter

If that is correct simply add a layer of tape to the one you better already have on there

Hart has a slightly lower then usual Bevel angle more in the 13° - 15° range rather then the normal 15° - 17° range they themselves recommend one layer of tape but if you are getting micro chipping then add another..

Another trick that works with Chippy razor is to use a Micro-bevel personally I am not a fan of the process but it does work for some razors..
If the edge is solid to until you hit the finisher then this should solve it..


Never keep doing the same thing expecting a different outcome, especially when it entails grinding away steel on your precious razors


PS: Just a hint because I just had one leave the shop

The slight wave in the bevel might NOT be your fault or doing, I just honed a Hart with a slight thin spot in the grind this showed as a very small imperfection in the bevel which many would have tried to hone out.. I could see the grind imperfection easily on the face of the razor since it was a polished blade, but with a Blued Steel or a Satin Steel that will be more difficult to spot so look really close at the blade face above the bevel imperfection and see to make sure you are not trying to hone out something that doesn't effect the shave and cannot be taken out...


Here is the pic where I tried to capture it for the owner of the razor

Attachment 170497

Thanks , yes Hart Steel , I did use 2 tapes for a while because I noticed the bevel getting wider and wider but recently went back to the single tape method , time to double up again..
Is there any way to take the wave out? or any point to take it out.
I have 2 not a replica blades , one is saved for best and the other is for my honing practice.
The one which has seen me learn to hone with is super wavy , so im thinking I must have done that with uneven pressures ..

Originally Posted by Steve56

Just based on my own learning experiences, my early problems were too much pressure and not enough time working the slurry down on the jNats. This doesn't mean you have the same problem, but trying some substantially different techniques may help you identify if technique is an issue.

When you get to the JNats, try a very thin slurry raised with little pressure. You should not be able to feel any particles with a fingertip or the razor. Reduce the pressure by at least a half and double your stroke count, reducing pressure to near zero at the end - the stage when you are basically polishing. I start on the JNats with finger pressure, about what you'd use if you were wiping a surface with a fingertip to see if it were dusty. I typically use 40 circle ellipse at finger pressure, then reduce pressure through 40 more single sided strokes. Numbers are arbitrary in a given situation of course, but you should feel the slurry break at about 20-30 in the ellipse stage. It will start feeling very smooth. Keep the slurry wet.

Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the help I will do as you say.

I was told that my stone must have a lot of pre polishing before it will perform.
I bought a cheap Arkansas stone which just scratched my naturals .
I've used lots of Tomos also but still no mirror reflection shiny surface going on.
When using the tomos to achieve a shine should it be with little pressure?
Either way you guys have given my lots of things to try so its just a process of elimination .
I cant thank you all enough.

I lap my stones up to coti. Although many I know stop
at 600 grit. What Im getting out of the scope pictures are some bevel wrecking particles. If you havent already, round a corner of the tomo and use that gently to raise some slurry. It may take some time to do this depending on how hard the tomo is as compared to the base stone. Easy pressure and perhaps soaking the tomo a few minutes may let it happen easier. If you are using the tomo flat, a groove or 2 may reduce the stiction or suction between the 2 surfaces.

Originally Posted by bill3152

I lap my stones up to coti. Although many I know stop
at 600 grit. What Im getting out of the scope pictures are some bevel wrecking particles. If you havent already, round a corner of the tomo and use that gently to raise some slurry. It may take some time to do this depending on how hard the tomo is as compared to the base stone. Easy pressure and perhaps soaking the tomo a few minutes may let it happen easier. If you are using the tomo flat, a groove or 2 may reduce the stiction or suction between the 2 surfaces.

I was recently made aware of the soft approach to slurry making.
Going through my slurry stones I have found that the Nakayama Nagura releases the smallest particles , or at least that's what my eyes are telling me.
It is also the hardest to raise a slurry with, but patients and no pressure eventually does the job..

Originally Posted by JOB15

My problem is my Nakayama, im either making weak edges or broke up edges.
It's gonna take some learning as the stone is above my level of honing expertise .
I was advised by Maksim to make sure my Nakayama gets pre polished and to use my Shobu pre Nakayama , nice to know my shobu isn't redundant

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I use a pre-polisher called Ozuku Sunashi Suita prior to the Nakayama Mariuchi Asagi and have no problem with chipping. You can also try the Tim Zowada method of adding 1 layer of tape for the last 5 or so finish strokes. This also works for me.

Originally Posted by mrsell63

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I use a pre-polisher called Ozuku Sunashi Suita prior to the Nakayama Mariuchi Asagi and have no problem with chipping. You can also try the Tim Zowada method of adding 1 layer of tape for the last 5 or so finish strokes. This also works for me.

Whats the deal with pre polishing?
I'd never heard of it until today.
Is it a stone that preps the blade for final polishing.
was told that my stone is super fine and would require a lot of pre polishing.