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Thread: Asano Nagura set

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JOB15 Asano Nagura set 04-08-2015, 07:47 PM
LegalBeagle My progression is to start... 04-08-2015, 08:17 PM
JOB15 I see. So I would go... 04-08-2015, 08:22 PM
LegalBeagle What you will find is that... 04-08-2015, 08:51 PM
JOB15 I will do that.. This honing... 04-08-2015, 09:46 PM
FranfC [QUOTE=JOB15;1482588]I see.... 04-08-2015, 10:08 PM
JOB15 [QUOTE=FranfC;1482620] Many... 04-08-2015, 10:37 PM
mainaman Just get a nice Mejiro and a... 04-08-2015, 11:04 PM
DaveW Maybe someone said this... 04-09-2015, 02:59 PM
JOB15 Thanks, I will have a go with... 04-09-2015, 03:50 PM
DaveW If the base stone is hard, it... 04-09-2015, 03:52 PM
  1. #1
    FrankC
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    [QUOTE=JOB15;1482588]I see. So I would go 1k/4k/8k/ Nakayama with the three Asano then the tomo.
    At the moment I go 1/4/8k then Shobu with a Nakayama Nagura then onto the Nakayama with a tomo nagura.
    As with most things I think evolution and progression is where its at.[/QUOTE

    I think you may find that if you max out your 8K synthetic edge and then go to a Botan slurry on your base stone it may take the edge backwards, this is where experimentation will help you.

    I suggest that you hone a razor on your synthetic progression and shave off of your best 8K edge, then take that same edge and hone on a Botan slurry on your J-Nat till all the 8K scratches disappear and you have worked the slurry till it has broken down, strop and shave. This will tell you if you have made a refinement or gone backwards. Shave off of each slurry in your nagura progression as you refine the edge, this will help you to understand what each slurry adds in the edge refinement.

    I typically set the bevel and advance through 3K on my Nani Pros, then switch over to the J-Nat progression. I use Botan, Tenjou, Mejero and Komo naguras, then finish with a Tomo slurry. I usually finish on light to medium slurry, sometimes plain water depending on the base stone and razor that I'm finishing with.

    I don't think you will have any problem not having a Komo, you just need to hone on these slurries until they break down a good long ways, don't rush them. This is where shaving after each completed nagura slurry will help you get the idea where each slurry will take the edge.

    If you chose to do this a time or two you may learn just what the combination of your base stone and the nagura or Tomo nagura is accomplishing in each step of your process.

    Remember these are natural stones and are not alike, many differences, and this is where we have to learn our stones. My stones won't be the same as yours, this is true for nagura and Tomo also.

    This is why we must test allot, to learn how to use what we have.

    I hope this helps.

    Frank
    Wolfpack34 likes this.

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    JOB15 (04-08-2015)

  3. #2
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=FranfC;1482620]
    Quote Originally Posted by JOB15 View Post
    I see. So I would go 1k/4k/8k/ Nakayama with the three Asano then the tomo.
    At the moment I go 1/4/8k then Shobu with a Nakayama Nagura then onto the Nakayama with a tomo nagura.
    As with most things I think evolution and progression is where its at.[/QUOTE

    I think you may find that if you max out your 8K synthetic edge and then go to a Botan slurry on your base stone it may take the edge backwards, this is where experimentation will help you.

    I suggest that you hone a razor on your synthetic progression and shave off of your best 8K edge, then take that same edge and hone on a Botan slurry on your J-Nat till all the 8K scratches disappear and you have worked the slurry till it has broken down, strop and shave. This will tell you if you have made a refinement or gone backwards. Shave off of each slurry in your nagura progression as you refine the edge, this will help you to understand what each slurry adds in the edge refinement.

    I typically set the bevel and advance through 3K on my Nani Pros, then switch over to the J-Nat progression. I use Botan, Tenjou, Mejero and Komo naguras, then finish with a Tomo slurry. I usually finish on light to medium slurry, sometimes plain water depending on the base stone and razor that I'm finishing with.

    I don't think you will have any problem not having a Komo, you just need to hone on these slurries until they break down a good long ways, don't rush them. This is where shaving after each completed nagura slurry will help you get the idea where each slurry will take the edge.

    If you chose to do this a time or two you may learn just what the combination of your base stone and the nagura or Tomo nagura is accomplishing in each step of your process.

    Remember these are natural stones and are not alike, many differences, and this is where we have to learn our stones. My stones won't be the same as yours, this is true for nagura and Tomo also.

    This is why we must test allot, to learn how to use what we have.

    I hope this helps.

    Frank
    Many thanks, I will try shaving off each progression.

  4. #3
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Just get a nice Mejiro and a good tomonagura (if you do not have one already) and you are set. After your 8k do 2-3 dilutions with Mejiro, then 2-3 dilutions with the tomonagura, that should give you a nice edge.
    Stefan

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    JOB15 (04-09-2015)

  6. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Maybe someone said this straight up already, I'd use them on the hardest finest stone you have. I agree with Stefan, too, the full progression has more in it than you need (more steps).

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  8. #5
    www.edge-dynamics.com JOB15's Avatar
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    Thanks, I will have a go with all the steps and try just the Mejiro/Tomo.
    This is all good info.
    I watched a JNS video and he mainly used circles with only a few x-strokes.
    Do you guys use so many circles?
    My personal preference on my Jnats is to just go up and down, no X's no circles (ok a few circles) and no pigtails..
    All synthetics I do X strokes & Circles.

  9. #6
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    If the base stone is hard, it really doesn't matter what you do as long as you don't damage the edge by rolling it or something. You can do half strokes, x strokes, circles, etc, all of them will create a thin edge that has very nice geometry and minute shallow scratch pattern - the strop will do the rest of the work for you.

    If you have some idiosyncrasy in one of the methods personally, you might find out that it doesn't work for you that well, but I personally have not been able to tell much difference with the results stone to stone when the fine stone is broken in.

  10. #7
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    I do circles to begin with then x-strokes mostly. I do not think it matters, it is more of a preference thing.
    Stefan

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