Thread: Review of Wood Block Strop/Hone using Progressive Sandpaper for Bevel setting

You will imminently buy stones after , but for the begining for a few razors maintain is ok . It is a matter the edge you put on the razor and if you enjoy it .

Originally Posted by RusenBG

You will imminently buy stones after , but for the begining for a few razors maintain is ok . It is a matter the edge you put on the razor and if you enjoy it .

I am trying out this newer technology to see how I like the bevel setting compared to my stones. I have a set or Nortons for that but am not totally satisfied with the Nortons. I do, however, like my four belgium coticules and two eschers. They are great sharpencers and finishers. I hope the 3M lapping film will work as well as others have described it and they are shown on youTube videos. Just looking to get a nice shaving edge, more consistantly. I undestand that some of this may be my technique. Will just have to see how this goes with the 3M lapping film.

Originally Posted by DaveW

This comes up in various iterations in woodworking. Eventually, a user with experience starts to want more specific results, and they want a feel from their stone - something that's a bit harder to get from films, etc.

I agree with the above comments about dubbing the edge, the paper has to be super tightly down (which means adhesive) to avoid dubbing. Most paper is silicon carbide (in the finer grits) until you get to the really small lapping film particles, and silicon carbide is a bit harsh on a razor edge.

It can work, but it wouldn't be my first choice.

If I were really on a tight budget, I'd do a three step with two pieces of MDF and the following:

King 800 or 1000 for bevel sets, Autosol polish to follow (3 micron aluminum oxide - would take a little longer, but would work) on MDF, green chrome with mineral (baby oil would be fine) mixed in. The latter two would necessitate a trailing motion, but the strop can get rid of the effect of that after the last step.

MDF is CHEAP as long as you can cut it, and I'd cut it into 8x2 strips. It would get hollow a tiny bit in the length over time but it can be sanded flat, and it wouldn't dub. The total cost for that should be about $40. You can literally flatten a king 800 on a concrete block.

I out of curiosity did that Dave using a king 800/4000 to set the bevel and do the initial stria removal , I used diamond lapping past in 3.5 micron and 1.0 micron at the finish. The Shave this morning was very close with no tugging nor weepers.makes a nice cheap set up for the monetarily limited imo.cheers .

I think for giggles, I might try this, too. I've done it on tools (just out of curiosity), but didn't like it because autosol leaves a film on the tools (which comes off on the wood if it's on the back of a chisel).

Might be interesting with a razor, though I'll try the batch I suggested as I have all of the components (I guess I have the diamonds, too, but whipping them out in the shop causes problems if they get loose).

That the edge is convexed, is not an issue and actually a plus, the edge should be thicker and stronger.

But convexing by flexing the substrate, varying of pressure, is problematic, because it is not repeatable. Each lap and grit will convex at a different rate.

Simply using a solid, flat substrate e.g. glass plate will eliminate the flex and convexing, delivering a uniform repeatable angle and edge.

Film can produce a very uniform, straight edge because of the super uniform grit, (no binder). It is excellent for hard, chippy steels.