Thread: Review of Wood Block Strop/Hone using Progressive Sandpaper for Bevel setting

Most would probably agree that proper Bevel setting is the key to getting a great shaving edge. I have learned the hard way that if the bevel isn't set properly you'll never get a proper shaving edge. About a year ago I bought this DLT Ultimate Block Strop/Hone for $29.95 DLT Ultimate Block Strop/Hone when I saw a video of a knife guy using it to sharpen knives. He was using different compounds, (black, green, white) on the leather sides but I thought it might work for setting the bevel on a straight razor using progressive sandpaper grits. Well, I have been using it for about 6 months now and it does a magnificent job on setting bevels. I no longer use my Norton 1K or india oil stones or DMTs. I just cut 2 inch sandpaper strips of wet/dry sandpaper of 500, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit. Depending on what the edge looks like using a 60X magnifying scope/light, I will normally start with the 500 grit to take out chips, corrosion, etc. It only takes takes several minutes (4-5min) to get the edge completely smooth. Then I move to the 1000, then to the 1500, then finally the 2000 grit. By the time that I get the the 2000 grit the beveled set edge is really starting to polish up nicely. The bevel setting time is 20-30 minutes for a rough old Sheffield, less time for a blade in better shape. I then move on to my Belgian coticules and finally an Escher. Top it off with .5 micron chromium oxide on a balsa paddle then just strop it with a hanging latigo strop. HHT is no problem after using this process.

The block measures 8" x 2" and 3 of the 4 sides are covered in leather. Small wing nuts on both ends secure the sandpaper strips between the small block to the larger block. Not sure of the type of wood. You may have to occasionally readjust the wing nuts on each end to keep the sandpaper flat and in place. That is the only problem that I can report. Recommend using it on a rubber map to help keep it in place. I may add some rubber feet as well. It is a very simple block device and could be made very easily by a semi skilled woodworker. In smmary, I think it works great and makes it easier to put a proper bevel on a blade quickly. I do not plan on ever using a stone again to set a bevel.

Sandpaper is generally coarser than stones. 1000 grit sandpaper cuts faster and leave deeper scratches than a 1000 grit stone. The 500 sandpaper cuts like 200 grit stone. Too much metal removed. Still, sharpening with sandpaper on a hard surface is common for bigger blades produced in numbers. I'm not sure why.

Originally Posted by Vasilis

Sandpaper is generally coarser than stones. 1000 grit sandpaper cuts faster and leave deeper scratches than a 1000 grit stone. The 500 sandpaper cuts like 200 grit stone. Too much metal removed. Still, sharpening with sandpaper on a hard surface is common for bigger blades produced in numbers. I'm not sure why.

Agree completely. The 500 grit paper really removes metal fast. Scary fast! It cuts out those chips and burrs very quickly. It doesn't get much time on the 500 grit paper. Each of the subsequent grades remove the scratches, then begins to polishes it, prepping it nicely for stonework to shapen the edge. Thanks for your input.

Aren't you convexing the bevels with leather backed sand paper and the back honing stroke? I mean that is a way to convex knife bevels.

Originally Posted by mainaman

Aren't you convexing the bevels with leather backed sand paper and the back honing stroke? I mean that is a way to convex knife bevels.

Good point. I didn't realize that could happen as a result. I haven't noticed any convexing in the blades I've honed. I have used the X stoke primarly and it seems to be straight. I will watch for that. Thank you very much.

Originally Posted by ajkenne

Good point. I didn't realize that could happen as a result. I haven't noticed any convexing in the blades I've honed. I have used the X stoke primarly and it seems to be straight. I will watch for that. Thank you very much.

It might be hard to tell with such narrow bevels. Even with knives it requires pretty thick geometry to be able to tell the bevels were convexed.

Yes you are convexing the bevel, just use a 3in piece of glass and water to hold the wet & dry. It will hold it to the glass fine.
You can lap the glass plate with 320 wet and dry or a diamond plate fairly easily.

It does work and well for limited and economical solution, but is a hassle for maintaining or restoring many razors.

As said it is aggressive and can cause chipping at finish.

This comes up in various iterations in woodworking. Eventually, a user with experience starts to want more specific results, and they want a feel from their stone - something that's a bit harder to get from films, etc.

I agree with the above comments about dubbing the edge, the paper has to be super tightly down (which means adhesive) to avoid dubbing. Most paper is silicon carbide (in the finer grits) until you get to the really small lapping film particles, and silicon carbide is a bit harsh on a razor edge.

It can work, but it wouldn't be my first choice.

If I were really on a tight budget, I'd do a three step with two pieces of MDF and the following:

King 800 or 1000 for bevel sets, Autosol polish to follow (3 micron aluminum oxide - would take a little longer, but would work) on MDF, green chrome with mineral (baby oil would be fine) mixed in. The latter two would necessitate a trailing motion, but the strop can get rid of the effect of that after the last step.

MDF is CHEAP as long as you can cut it, and I'd cut it into 8x2 strips. It would get hollow a tiny bit in the length over time but it can be sanded flat, and it wouldn't dub. The total cost for that should be about $40. You can literally flatten a king 800 on a concrete block.

I remember seeing a wooden jig for sharpening microtome razors that worked on the same principle except that the razor was held tight on a wooden block with slide rails set in it and a wooden block with varying grades of sandpaper was slid over the bevel to sharpen it. It was from a scientific journal, so they must have been quite happy with the edge produced. Mind you, they were slicing up plants and various other dead things - they couid not comment on how smooth the edge was, of course!

I also had an old multi-part strop, say 1920s - 1940s vintage, probably made by 'Scorcher' which consisted of about 12 long strips of strop-shaped sandpaper for touching-up the edge. Its surface was very fine - flower of emery or some such, and you tore off a strip when it was spent. It was gathered together like a normal strop of the time at the top and even had a handle shape cut into the strips at the bottom. Never did try to sharpen a razor with it - it looked like it might really mess-up a bevel.

Regards,
Neil

I have used wet-dry sandpaper to hone out frowns and chips. I think it was 1500 grit.