Thread: A History And Justification For My Diamond Plates

I also use dish soap on all my naturals after soaking in the simple green. Just scrub with a old toothbrush. I have had the simple green eat away at synthetic hones so do not recommend that however I do use dish soap on pretty much all of them and haven't had an issue. I do not use it for prolong periods just a drop on the toothbrush and then scrub away in sink with water running on stone. I even use with dmt and even with sandpaper to wipe away years of use.

This thread is very informative AND, more importantly, makes me feel much better about my various addiction disorders.

You know your first lapping plate still works fine. Slower but so are you. No need to write an essay about it and your finds.
Are you bored Ron? Each honer finds his way with what works for each person. Atomer vs.DMT Lapping plate vs. Trend is price point directly associated with performance . Keep it Simple.

It is a great post. I didnt mean to sound harsh or unappreciative. I am Sorry if it came across that way.
Please forgive me, I do appreciate all you do for the community.

I find that my DMT works great after years of abuse. I guess that makes me a casual honer.
No harm No foul. No ill will intended.

Informative post Ron.
How would you say the Atoma 140 compares to the DMT stone eating monster ?
Do stones stick to the DMT ?

As far as stone lapping goes, from my experience, the cheapest, fastest method with consistent results every time to keep your stones flat is, loose grit on a piece of (flat) glass. Loose grit is very cheap with a variety of particle sizes, faster than diamond plates for the same grit, and the pieces of glass... well, you can probably find a discarded one somewhere around if you don't want to spend money there.
I've had my experience with diamond plates and with my limited experience I agree with you, but loose grit on glass is very cheap and lasts a long time. Pretty much useless for sharpening in today's time, but for stone flattening, the best. Just be careful not to get the surface too hollow, but that takes a whole lot of flattening to happen.
And, after you flatten the stone, you can lap the stone you were flattening with your 1k stone to get its surface smooth again. Or your 200 grit if you are lapping your 1k stone... you get the picture.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Informative post Ron.
How would you say the Atoma 140 compares to the DMT stone eating monster ?
Do stones stick to the DMT ?

The stones do not stick to the DMT. I presume that is because the diamonds are large enough to protrude high enough to prevent stiction to the plate.

I'm not sure I can make a proper comparison between the Atoma 140 and the Dia Flat. I guess I still have a paranoia about the delicacy of the Atomas, even though I have experienced no evidence of it, so I only have rarely used the Atoma for lapping and use it with very little pressure. On the other hand, I push the heck out of the Dia Flat. Given the higher density of the diamonds on the Atoma, I would guess that it would lap faster than the Dia Flat if they were used with the same pressure, but I never have done a direct comparison. I'll give it a try and report back.

I lapped a coticule on an Atoma 1200 today. I began with the old GDLP, which is worn to some extent, even though my DMT D8C did most of the heavy lifting before I went to the shapton. The GDLP was taking too long but the Atoma made short work of the coticule. Funny, I had sent it out to a guy to try and he characterized it as 'soft'. Judging from the lapping I would consider it hard. Different strokes and all of that ..........

BTW, with the expense of the Atoma 1200, and figuring that it must be more fragile then coarser grits, I've worried about wear and/or ruin through lapping. As most here know, Dia Sharp (DMT) tells us in their FAQ that no plate finer than 325 should be used for lapping, and the 325 under running water. The finer grits are not designed for lapping waterstones.

The Atoma I've read, is made differently than the DMTs and the 1200 is just so much faster and more efficient cutting through waterstones that I can't believe it myself. I still begin with the D8C or the GDLP to save wear, but the 1200 takes the last 1/2 to 2/3 down so well I'm not sorry I spent the $.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

How would you say the Atoma 140 compares to the DMT stone eating monster ?

OK, I did do a lapping comparison. Using equal pressure, I lapped a Dragon's Tongue alternating between the two plates. I perceive them to be about equal in cutting capacity. I think the Dia Flat was a little bit faster only because of its greatest surface area but they are both very fast and aggressive at creating a massive amount of slurry to flatten the hone.

I now have two and a half more quarts of slurry water!

I started with the DMT 325 but it was a one off with a clump of diamonds that I cant smooth out and I have tried .
So I also have 2 Atoma 1200's . One for Naguras, edges of synthetics and whatever use I can find for it and the other is pristine for my Jnats but in order to break it in, I use it to clean my synthetics after each session .
I have the Shapton diamond plate but because it was so expensive I like to save it.

I used to clean my Choseras with the dressing stone that comes with, however I found it was leaving grit on the hone after use , also I was cleaning my Shaptons with it before I realised it was chipping the corners and edges so I slung it in the bin. I have another new one but it can stay in the box.
Recently I've been cleaning my Chosera 10k with a Tomo Nagura .

Is there any reason I can't simply use a belt sander with fine grit sandpaper? Would that not make a pretty smooth flat surface almost immediately?