Thread: A History And Justification For My Diamond Plates

You know your first lapping plate still works fine. Slower but so are you. No need to write an essay about it and your finds.
Are you bored Ron? Each honer finds his way with what works for each person. Atomer vs.DMT Lapping plate vs. Trend is price point directly associated with performance . Keep it Simple.

It is a great post. I didnt mean to sound harsh or unappreciative. I am Sorry if it came across that way.
Please forgive me, I do appreciate all you do for the community.

I find that my DMT works great after years of abuse. I guess that makes me a casual honer.
No harm No foul. No ill will intended.

Informative post Ron.
How would you say the Atoma 140 compares to the DMT stone eating monster ?
Do stones stick to the DMT ?

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Informative post Ron.
How would you say the Atoma 140 compares to the DMT stone eating monster ?
Do stones stick to the DMT ?

The stones do not stick to the DMT. I presume that is because the diamonds are large enough to protrude high enough to prevent stiction to the plate.

I'm not sure I can make a proper comparison between the Atoma 140 and the Dia Flat. I guess I still have a paranoia about the delicacy of the Atomas, even though I have experienced no evidence of it, so I only have rarely used the Atoma for lapping and use it with very little pressure. On the other hand, I push the heck out of the Dia Flat. Given the higher density of the diamonds on the Atoma, I would guess that it would lap faster than the Dia Flat if they were used with the same pressure, but I never have done a direct comparison. I'll give it a try and report back.

I lapped a coticule on an Atoma 1200 today. I began with the old GDLP, which is worn to some extent, even though my DMT D8C did most of the heavy lifting before I went to the shapton. The GDLP was taking too long but the Atoma made short work of the coticule. Funny, I had sent it out to a guy to try and he characterized it as 'soft'. Judging from the lapping I would consider it hard. Different strokes and all of that ..........

BTW, with the expense of the Atoma 1200, and figuring that it must be more fragile then coarser grits, I've worried about wear and/or ruin through lapping. As most here know, Dia Sharp (DMT) tells us in their FAQ that no plate finer than 325 should be used for lapping, and the 325 under running water. The finer grits are not designed for lapping waterstones.

The Atoma I've read, is made differently than the DMTs and the 1200 is just so much faster and more efficient cutting through waterstones that I can't believe it myself. I still begin with the D8C or the GDLP to save wear, but the 1200 takes the last 1/2 to 2/3 down so well I'm not sorry I spent the $.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

How would you say the Atoma 140 compares to the DMT stone eating monster ?

OK, I did do a lapping comparison. Using equal pressure, I lapped a Dragon's Tongue alternating between the two plates. I perceive them to be about equal in cutting capacity. I think the Dia Flat was a little bit faster only because of its greatest surface area but they are both very fast and aggressive at creating a massive amount of slurry to flatten the hone.

I now have two and a half more quarts of slurry water!

I started with the DMT 325 but it was a one off with a clump of diamonds that I cant smooth out and I have tried .
So I also have 2 Atoma 1200's . One for Naguras, edges of synthetics and whatever use I can find for it and the other is pristine for my Jnats but in order to break it in, I use it to clean my synthetics after each session .
I have the Shapton diamond plate but because it was so expensive I like to save it.

I used to clean my Choseras with the dressing stone that comes with, however I found it was leaving grit on the hone after use , also I was cleaning my Shaptons with it before I realised it was chipping the corners and edges so I slung it in the bin. I have another new one but it can stay in the box.
Recently I've been cleaning my Chosera 10k with a Tomo Nagura .

Is there any reason I can't simply use a belt sander with fine grit sandpaper? Would that not make a pretty smooth flat surface almost immediately?

Originally Posted by Mikeinri

Is there any reason I can't simply use a belt sander with fine grit sandpaper? Would that not make a pretty smooth flat surface almost immediately?

Our goal is the absolute flatness. Belt sanders don't exactly leave a flat surface. And the worst thing is, it looks flat (on knives I have seen) but isn't. As for the grit, changing it won't make it flatter.

Originally Posted by Mikeinri

Is there any reason I can't simply use a belt sander with fine grit sandpaper? Would that not make a pretty smooth flat surface almost immediately?

I do . Works fine. Make sure your on a flat surface and draw thick grid lines. Random orbit works fine. Then redraw light grid lap with your lapping plate of choice. Finishing stones I tend to lap with a 1200 grit card DMT. The down side as Utopian brings out is you have no slurry water with this method. For whacked out hard stones it saves my arms using power tools. Once they are squared by hand saves hone wear.

Originally Posted by Utopian

I now have two and a half more quarts of slurry water!

Would you describe the uses for this slurry water.