Thread: Glass stones vs Shapton pros?

Jende industries is not Shapton & is just voicing an opinion.
I can't remember where I got this chart but pretty sure it's info that came in the Pro boxes.
It says the 320 is for SS, Swedish Steel & even Japanese swords. Hardly only for Stainless.

I have the Shapton Pro 1.5k. Apparently it's not usable for anything.

I guess I should throw it away.

Oops, I just noticed the right side of the chart. I guess I can keep it for sharpening my rose shear.

Originally Posted by Steve56

The 2k Shapton Pro is my go-to for bevel setting. I believe you'll like it very much!

Cheers, Steve

Ditto that. One of my very favorite synthetic stones.

Originally Posted by Utopian

I have the Shapton Pro 1.5k. Apparently it's not usable for anything.

I guess I should throw it away.

Oops, I just noticed the right side of the chart. I guess I can keep it for sharpening my rose shear.

Don't forget your knife in Spring Steel.

No good for that--I think my knife was made in the winter.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Unfortunately though, Tom did not cite the source for his information in that link, so I'm not sure how credible it is, as he make no claim of it being "according to Shapton."

Yeah I should have written according to jende.. But I had a few beers and, well, thats the result. I pulled it out of my posterior.

However. I have seen this "trend" on several forums. That the 320 and the 1500 might be different somehow, than the rest of the pros.
Also that SEM guy with all the good SEM pics wrote that the 320 was made out of alu oxide and silicon carbide here https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com...big-of-a-jump/


And to be honest why even make a 1500 and a 1k and a 2k?? and then nothing until 5k? and then nothing upto 8k?

I wonder why the gray carbon specific glass stones are gray. Is it possibly so simple as this: if they put SiC in the stones now they classify them as corbon stones? Do the gray glass stones contain SiC?

Jigane, don’t sweat it. Most of what we use is designed for something else, partly because the Straight Razor market is so small.

You can over think a lot of this and it can lead you to stagnation. But if you get a consensus from folks that are using tools meant for other things with good results, you will probably have good results as well.

Really with Sharpton’s and most of the manufactures that we commonly use the results are pretty much the same. One may be a smidgen, faster, harder, softer or finer, but unless you are doing a lot of Pro/Production honing, it does not matter.

Enjoy

Those of you that own the 320 and 1500 pros; if you simply send them to me I can dispose of them for you in a safe manner.

Anyway all my new stuff arrived today, only took like 2 weeks.. iwasaki from hawaii, strop and diamonds from srd, and coticules in plural, and a blue 2 jap knife. I guess christmas came late this year

The iwasaki has a muted tip. Is that they way they do them these days? I was going to do it myself but not that big. Its about 2mm diagonally.

Wow I'm unpacking my stuff now as I write and to my surprise I was sent a coti slurry stone that is a natural combo stone.

I like my glass 2k. I have feeling it will never wear out with my limited number of knives. It feels a bit coarser than my pack of 3m 1500 perfect-it 3 sandpapers though. micro fine 1500 it says.

I believe they make so many similar grits because the matrix is different for different steels. They kind of say so on the 'obi' around the box and other references above. The 320 does not look or act like the 2k, it auto slurries a little beating a Gold Dollar into shape on it, more like the Chosera 600 or 1k.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Jigane, don’t sweat it. Most of what we use is designed for something else, partly because the Straight Razor market is so small.

You can over think a lot of this and it can lead you to stagnation. But if you get a consensus from folks that are using tools meant for other things with good results, you will probably have good results as well.

Really with Sharpton’s and most of the manufactures that we commonly use the results are pretty much the same. One may be a smidgen, faster, harder, softer or finer, but unless you are doing a lot of Pro/Production honing, it does not matter.

Enjoy

The coticules I was sent seems plenty fine to me at least. I also have a spyderco "unlapped" (only took the particles sticking up off it with a spyderco white triangle rod), its going to be fun comparing those.

I'm also starting to look into usb microscopes. to quantify the results.