Thread: Natural Bevel Setter

5-6 minutes? Man that's quick. Is that for quick edge repair, or can you pull that off when the edge is completely dull? Like had to bread knife the edge to hog out a chip? If so I've got a lot to learn about bevel setting.

Very few bevel settings happen in 5 minutes.

I had to ask. Ive spent nearly 4 hours on a Wedge trying to chew past a pit at the bevel and get to good steel, and the better part of an hour trying to speed-set the bevel on a Torrey. I think* the wedge is ready to move forward to the 4k. The Torrey still needs work. And that's with careful use of the 220 to speed things up. I don't think I want to find out how long work that heavy might've taken with a natural bevel setter. But I'd still like to have one for lighter work.

Originally Posted by Marshal

I had to ask. Ive spent nearly 4 hours on a Wedge trying to chew past a pit at the bevel and get to good steel, and the better part of an hour trying to speed-set the bevel on a Torrey. I think* the wedge is ready to move forward to the 4k. The Torrey still needs work. And that's with careful use of the 220 to speed things up. I don't think I want to find out how long work that heavy might've taken with a natural bevel setter. But I'd still like to have one for lighter work.

OK, those times are not good either. What are you using for a bevel setter?

Originally Posted by Marshal

5-6 minutes? Man that's quick. Is that for quick edge repair, or can you pull that off when the edge is completely dull? Like had to bread knife the edge to hog out a chip? If so I've got a lot to learn about bevel setting.

Henckels stainless 5/8 . Chips the full depth of the bevel gone in 6 minutes on 1k Shapton Pro with slurry. No bread knifing.

Damaged wedges start on the 320 grit Pro. I don't have all day to set a few bevels.

Inexperience & slow cutting stones = slow bevel sets.

I have been thinking, never tried it though: why not use a BBW with a slurry produced with another BBW.
IIRC BBW contain larger garnets but less than a coticule. Garnets are pretty hard stuff, if you use a thick slurry you can have many large garnets to do the work.

Originally Posted by Kees

I have been thinking, never tried it though: why not use a BBW with a slurry produced with another BBW.
IIRC BBW contain larger garnets but less than a coticule. Garnets are pretty hard stuff, if you use a thick slurry you can have many large garnets to do the work.

Did that on a Rodgers wedge some years back but used a diamond plate for the slurry. It was surprisingly fast but it was the nature of that stone.

Originally Posted by Utopian

OK, those times are not good either. What are you using for a bevel setter?

To remove steel - Norton 220

To set the bevel - Norton 1k.

Both had to be reshaped. The wedge had what I could only describe as a rolling bevel from previous owner abuse, and the spine needed adjustment. The Torrey had both a chip and a crack in the blade. When I say chip, I mean chunk missing - had to remove nearly 1/4 inch of steel from the blade. Fortunately this took care of the Crack as well. I used the 220 more than I care to admit on the wedge to get passed some deep pitting at the toe. On the Torrey I stopped once the bevel was 2/3 of the way to meeting and moved to the 1k because I saw how rough it was on the wedge. I figured that would be a safer bet.

I know Nortons aren't the fastest hones around, but I didn't think they were particularly slow either. Might be the amount of time I spent stopping and checking with the thumb pad and/or loupe to see where the edge was at.

Originally Posted by Marshal

To remove steel - Norton 220

To set the bevel - Norton 1k.

Both had to be reshaped. The wedge had what I could only describe as a rolling bevel from previous owner abuse, and the spine needed adjustment. The Torrey had both a chip and a crack in the blade. When I say chip, I mean chunk missing - had to remove nearly 1/4 inch of steel from the blade. Fortunately this took care of the Crack as well. I used the 220 more than I care to admit on the wedge to get passed some deep pitting at the toe. On the Torrey I stopped once the bevel was 2/3 of the way to meeting and moved to the 1k because I saw how rough it was on the wedge. I figured that would be a safer bet.

I know Nortons aren't the fastest hones around, but I didn't think they were particularly slow either. Might be the amount of time I spent stopping and checking with the thumb pad and/or loupe to see where the edge was at.

So you weren't just setting a bevel

Marsal you need to add a belt grinder to your progression if you keep buying razors like that :<0)