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Thread: Natural Bevel Setter

  1. #41
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10Pups View Post
    Marsal you need to add a belt grinder to your progression if you keep buying razors like that :<0)
    Ain't that the truth...too bad you can't inspect ebay items in person before placing a bid!

    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    So you weren't just setting a bevel
    Oh, they needed work don't get me wrong. But the time I gave was pretty much just getting the bevels set once everything else was squared away. The wedge should (finally) be ready for action. The Torrey is still in need of attention from the 1K.

  2. #42
    Senior Member blabbermouth Kees's Avatar
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    In the olden days natural bevel setters and hone progressions have never been popular in Europe, Japan being a different story. Probably because there weren't time-efficient bevel setters available.
    I have looked into the way razors and knives were made in the past and this is the picture.
    A blank was shaped using a millstone, when the blade was shaped a hone was used to finish the edge. Much elbow grease.
    You can read about it in Jean-Jacques Perret's book "L'art du coutelier" which tells you how knives and razors were made in France in the late 1700s: https://books.google.fr/books?id=1kv...page&q&f=false

    There has been a post on CCC about it. Although in French the pictures tell you the essentials. La fabrication châtelleraudaise
    Pics are late 1800s, J-J Perret wrote the book 100 years ago, not much seems to have changed in those 100 years.


    For Japanese bevel setters you may want to read up on the way katana swords were made. YouTube will provide some footage as well. So if you insist on natural bevel setters you'll need deep pockets as they don't come cheap.
    Last edited by Kees; 02-04-2016 at 04:36 PM.
    hatzicho likes this.
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

  3. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Kees For This Useful Post:

    hatzicho (02-04-2016), Vasilis (02-04-2016)

  4. #43
    Senior Member Vasilis's Avatar
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    Thank you kees.
    About Japanese bevel setters, let me know if anyone had a different experience, but on a kamisori the bevel setter is a stone around 4k (not a specific one). Whatever you do to it, you don't need to use a coarser stone, it's an overkill.

  5. #44
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasilis View Post
    Thank you kees.
    About Japanese bevel setters, let me know if anyone had a different experience, but on a kamisori the bevel setter is a stone around 4k (not a specific one). Whatever you do to it, you don't need to use a coarser stone, it's an overkill.
    A kamisori is no different to other razors you use what is needed to get the job done.
    Marshal likes this.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  6. #45
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    Yeah, exactly - starting at 4k is fine assuming there's no damage or poor geometry. Otherwise you use whatever is needed.
    Vasilis likes this.

  7. #46
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    I used a 2k Shapton Pro on an edge rebuild on an Iwasaki kamisori.

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...e-restore.html
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  8. #47
    Senior Member Brontosaurus's Avatar
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    I find that a soft Arkansas used with oil works very well as a bevel-setter. In France, I've had good results setting the bevel using a Pyrenees mountain, Ariège "lisse" stone with water and a spine-leading pass.
    Last edited by Brontosaurus; 02-05-2016 at 12:42 AM.
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    Striving to be brief, I become obscure. --Horace

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