Thread: Fastest progression possible

“Fastest” is not always, or usually Best, or recommended.

A lot depends on the honer. I know guys, that do something very similar, and/or, use other unconventional means. But, they have tons of experience honing razors and know their tools and limitations, very well.

Hell, I don’t recommend new stroppers and honers, emulate most thing Mastro Livi does, with stones and strops, but surely do not deny, that he can produce a fine edge and that his methods work… for him.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“Fastest” is not always, or usually Best, or recommended.

A lot depends on the honer. I know guys, that do something very similar, and/or, use other unconventional means. But, they have tons of experience honing razors and know their tools and limitations, very well.

Hell, I don’t recommend new stroppers and honers, emulate most thing Mastro Livi does, with stones and strops, but surely do not deny, that he can produce a fine edge and that his methods work… for him.

Nice post Euclid440. I once stropped a razor on an 8" looseleaf buff . That was fast

Sigh! It takes as long as it does with what you have!
Some of my favorites have an edge developed by stropping for many years off of a few barber's hones back when. Fun! Slow!
Synthetic progression is fastest, IMO.

Originally Posted by aaron1234

I'm looking for something as fast as possible. Any suggestions.

Question is aaron1234 did you make a decision?

Originally Posted by Memorael

Heres goes a can a worms, fastest progession is a dmt coarse -> coticule with slurry and dilute until you use just water. Strop and shave. So lets hear it boys, I know this is gonna piss some people off.

It didn't PO me. Sometimes things aren't what we think, especially in the microscopic world, or, more accurately the electronmicroscopic world. After contemplating the images on scienceofsharp and comparing to my own experience, namely, the DMT-E 1200 eats steel a lot faster than the DMT-C 325, I have experimented with this as well.

Apparently the larger diamonds of the -C don't dig in as deep, their scratches are wide but shallow. I have now completed >10 junkers from start to finish using only 2 stones, the -C to repair and set bevel, then any of the above mentioned to finish.

This assumes a well broken in -C, and light to no pressure at the end, then straight to the finisher of choice.

SHIELDS UP.

Originally Posted by Memorael

Heres goes a can a worms, fastest progession is a dmt coarse -> coticule with slurry and dilute until you use just water. Strop and shave. So lets hear it boys, I know this is gonna piss some people off.

Originally Posted by KenG

It didn't PO me. Sometimes things aren't what we think, especially in the microscopic world, or, more accurately the electronmicroscopic world. After contemplating the images on scienceofsharp and comparing to my own experience, namely, the DMT-E 1200 eats steel a lot faster than the DMT-C 325, I have experimented with this as well.

Apparently the larger diamonds of the -C don't dig in as deep, their scratches are wide but shallow. I have now completed >10 junkers from start to finish using only 2 stones, the -C to repair and set bevel, then any of the above mentioned to finish.

This assumes a well broken in -C, and light to no pressure at the end, then straight to the finisher of choice.

SHIELDS UP.

There was a guy on here that swore by using a 1 inch belt grinder too,,, At a certain point in time we can only point you toward the proved path that works for the majority of people..

Some people insist on taking their own path.... I don't have to shave with those edges you do

So a Belt Grinder is Fastest by far, but really not a popular choice,,, But hey ..... It works Right ????

Honestly, I thought about this again....

I think the fastest progression would be the tools you know how to really work.

"Anything is possible with the right tools"

I've lurked on these forums for years, long before I ever posted. With the above statement, when I was brand new to honing, I was *OBSESSED* with "anything."
As I got better, I realized a good emphasis on "the right tools" was far more important. THEN the anything part, the magic happens, and my speed is much better than when I started, that's for sure.

Get the right tools, learn them. Speed comes later, not before. A nortion 4/8 is faster than some coticules, but if you don't know what you're doing, an experienced coticuler will run circles (no pun intended) around it. If you really know the norton, the chosera 1k, you could step outside to have a cigarette in between the progression and be done before a guy doing a one stone hone job on his la verte coticule.

When the thread started, I thought that only natural stone progression advice was asked. And that there were actually 1000 functional razors. Since neither of these apply, get something coarser than a bevel setter, like sigma II 400 or Chocera (professional now?) 400, a 1000 grit Chocera, you won't regret it, and then a combo, 4/8 norton, or 3/8 naniwa, or just buy known functional stones in the range of 3-6k and something man made around 8k, before a finisher, preferably natural. A diamond plate wouldn't hurt anyway. You don't have to buy a 400, 1000, 2k, 3k, 5k, 8k, 10k, 12k, gokumyo 20k and a natural. after setting bevel, 2 stones and your finisher are more than enough. As for brands, both types of Naniwa will get the job done, as well as Shapton stones, Norton, Sigma an a few others.
If you live in US or Canada, Norton would be easier and cheaper to order. Other than that, most of us use the "fastest progression possible", no overkill though.

nice take, I like a natural progression myself!

Cheers

I use two stones. A 1K then my finisher. Only use the 1K if the bevel needs setting. I have talked to grinders that worked for Genco and that's the way they did it. Works for me. YMMV and all that.