Thread: Another whats under the stone post.

As for natural grit ratings, I understand and agree with the statements above with one caveat.

Here's a thought for discussion: With respect to a given natural stone used by a knowledgeable person, you could ask them 'What grit synthetic would you replace it with in a progression?' And I believe you would get a good answer.

Also, synthetics are not all the same grit either, there is some coarser and some finer grit in them too though the distribution is known and can be described.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by StewieS

EKretz; I am assuming you have limited knowledge of Salmen's background as an owner, major dealer and exporter of U.K mined natural sharpening stones. They were equivalent to Pikes from the USA.

StewieS;

Yes, I'm aware of that. However I hadn't heard that Salmen was also selling stones obtained from the Meikledale quarry.

Originally Posted by Steve56

As for natural grit ratings, I understand and agree with the statements above with one caveat.

Here's a thought for discussion: With respect to a given natural stone used by a knowledgeable person, you could ask them 'What grit synthetic would you replace it with in a progression?' And I believe you would get a good answer.

Also, synthetics are not all the same grit either, there is some coarser and some finer grit in them too though the distribution is known and can be described.

Cheers, Steve

That is true, but they at least are consistent hone to hone since the grit is screened/purposely sorted. I have seen natural stones that are purported to be "the same stone" vary quite a bit - since they are basically just grit/detritus deposited by Mother Nature, they aren't always very consistent. That was mostly the point I was getting at. Just because one person's natural stone is equivalent to "X" grit synth finisher doesn't mean they all will be, so it's difficult to give an accurate rating other than an approximate range.

I have no intention of buying more honing stones. So that in itself will represent the end of my posts on nat stones. (you can breath easy now gents).

StewieS;

I have no intention of buying more honing stones.”

Said the exact same thing to my bride, just the other day…

She laughed…

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I have no intention of buying more honing stones.”

Said the exact same thing to my bride, just the other day…

She laughed…

I say that every week.

Well all have stated fine views on natural hone grit. Only remaining point is how to rate a nat hone? The last resort, after trying the hone on tests razors, could be to lick the hone and thereby comparing it to a synthetic of similar grit. There are threads about it here and thou the method is weird, it does work and gives a good key to the hone grit.

Just don't do it when the wife is at home. [emoji23]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Kristian

Well all have stated fine views on natural hone grit. Only remaining point is how to rate a nat hone? The last resort, after trying the hone on tests razors, could be to lick the hone and thereby comparing it to a synthetic of similar grit. There are threads about it here and thou the method is weird, it does work and gives a good key to the hone grit.

Just don't do it when the wife is at home. [emoji23]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Considering there's no telling what some of my old stones are liable to have in them, licking them is perhaps not the best idea. I don't want to know what hundred plus year old whale oil, honing oils that are older than I am, or the simple green I used to leech the oil out of the hones tastes like.

I think I'll stick to honing a blade on the rocks, then examining the stria under a loupe and giving it my best guess.

Marshal; do you honestly believe that whale oil was used.

StewieS;

Whale oil has low viscosity (lower than olive oil),[4] is clear, and varies in color from a bright honey yellow to a dark brown, according to the condition of the blubber from which it has been extracted and the refinement through which it went. It has a strong fishy odor. When hydrogenated, it turns solid and white and loses its unpleasant taste and odor.[5][6] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whale_oil

Depending on the age of the stone? Without a doubt.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honing_oil

There are many different kinds of "honing oils" to suit different needs. It is important to use the appropriate solution for the job. In the case of knife sharpening, motor oil is too thick or "heavy" and can over-lubricate or clog a sharpening stone, whereas WD-40 is too "light" an oil and will not carry the metal filings plus stone dust (collectively known as "swarf") away from the stone, and clog it. Not using any oil at all will also clog or "glaze" the stone, again reducing its cutting power.[5] Historically sperm whale oil, Neatsfoot oil, and other animal fats were popular.

It wouldn't surprise me if a hundred plus year old Arkansas stone had seen some of all of the above. I've got a few that have been used with various motor oils, WD-40, Crisco, bacon fat, spit (with and without tobacco juice), corn and vegetable oil. And that's just what I saw my grandfather put on them in my life time.

Edit/addendum:

This is also why I balk when I see the suggestion of licking a stone.