Thread: Sealing synthetics

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I don’t get the point of sealing synthetics, some of my synthetics have crazing, but does not affect performance, so is not something I worry about. I also don’t fret about flatness, just smooth and load-up free.

I too, would think sealing synthetics, would trap “in” water and cause more problems.

Lately, I have been using splash and go technique with synthetics, even Kings. I use a squirt bottle, and plastic tray, but they fill and hold water after a few minutes. I do use, probably more water than most. The swarf and extra runoff, can be soaked up with a sponge.

I have been doing some experimentation on swarf load up on some stones, especially the Super Stones, and have found, it can greatly affect performance.

For me, it is well worth getting up, walking to the sink and doing a quick lap with a diamond plate, under running water, in terms of finish and speed.

It costs them money to seal the stones, so there is a reason though maybe we do not understand it. The crazing may or may not be an issue for honing, but if enough people return stones and say on forums that they are not going to buy brand X because they craze, they will do something about it.

What follows is speculation on my part. I have suspected that the crazing and cracking is caused by the stone warping when it is unevenly wetted or dried. That's why they say no fms, no heat, keep them out of the sun (Shapton). Such warping has been seen by our members. The warping could cause internal stresses and cracking/crazing.

I have also noted that my early USA Shapton Pros have the same graphics as the non-US Kuromaku and speculate that the 'reformulation' for the US market and the dry Western US air was simply sealing the sides and back of the stone. I also believe that stones warping could possibly be the reason for the Shapton Glass series. A Glass stone is of course, sealed on the back and the 5mm sides aren't much area and may be sealed too. The glass would prevent a thinner abrasive layer from warping and maybe cracking or crazing.

They'd probably never believe anyone would even be interested in things like this. Harrelson Stanley may be able to provide some insight for the Shapton stones.

Cheers, Steve

The Shaptons do not warp, alt least in my experience. They are brittle, and the new formulated Glass Series is even more brittle and thin. So that is obviously a good combination to benefit from the glass backplate hack.

Warping seems to be the Naniwa Tradition, when ist comes to resin boud stones of course.

I am still undecided wether to seal or not. I see the easier handling and maintenance (well, that is if you like to clean the sides of the stones). The Shapton Kuromaku might benefit from it. But my Naniwa Kombination stones do not warp, so i don't think about sealing them.

A friendlier and less permanent solution to sealing, more like a protective layer, not for the naturals that tend to split but for other kinds of problems is renaissance wax.
I've used it on the sides of a Suehiro 320grit, too thirsty stone and swarf residues. It helped on both, and it doesn't interfere at all on honing or lapping. You don't even notice it there, the stone just stays clean. I applied it with my finger, small quantity and covered the whole area on the sides without leaving any spaces, once more than a year ago, and I'm still frequently use the stone, although the stone has gotten a bit too thin from use now, and it still lasts.

Edit; For anyone who isn't familiar with it, it some microcrystalline silicon something that helps with corrosion resistance, I think it's food safe as well but don't take my word for it, and you can apply it on any knife/razor/sword, used as wood finishing as well since it inhibits water absorption, even paintings if I remember correctly in the description. If applied, sparingly, on any place of a piece of steel that doesn't come in contact with something, it forms a very thin layer that inhibits corrosion in almost any environment. Unfortunately, it comes off easily. If you rub it, most of it, even dry, will leave the surface. Acetone removes it completely.

This is all giving me a great idea for sealing the sides and bottom of a Norton 1k hone. Maybe solve that endless thirst they have!

Originally Posted by Magpie

This is all giving me a great idea for sealing the sides and bottom of a Norton 1k hone. Maybe solve that endless thirst they have!

I'm kind of glad I wasn't the only one that immediately thought of that after reading this thread.

Originally Posted by Marshal

I'm kind of glad I wasn't the only one that immediately thought of that after reading this thread.

I've tried it before with a King-like Suehiro 1k. Didn't work but won't hurt anything.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

I've tried it before with a King-like Suehiro 1k. Didn't work but won't hurt anything.

Cheers, Steve

Well, what I was thinking was a bit outside the scope of the thread. And not relative to Renaissance wax.

I was pondering taking something like shellac, known barber hone binder that likely wouldn't hamper the grit much (or honing at all) and let one of our ever thirsty Norton friends drink it up til all those pores were filled.

Of course if that backfired and the filler was too hard, it would no longer be 1k. And couldn't be reversed.