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Thread: getting an edge with a coticule
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06-06-2017, 06:24 PM #1
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Thanked: 246I think the main takeaway here is that the vast majority of coticules can be used to finish a razor satisfactorily, but a fair percentage of them require considerably more skill/technique from the honer than others, so are much tougher for beginners to use. Some of these stones are *hone, strop, great shave* and others are *hone, strop, fail*; *try another honing technique, fail*; *try another honing technique, great shave* or *give up assuming the stone is useless for razors* with varying multiples of trying new techniques until success is achieved or the person gives up. I think most that have more experience with coticules would agree with this.
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The Following User Says Thank You to eKretz For This Useful Post:
Butzy (06-06-2017)
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06-06-2017, 06:55 PM #2
I think this summarizes, in aggregate, a lot of the great feedback i've gotten from the original post and question. Varying techniques may be the trick with my stones.
My 1k waterstone arrives today, so with any luck my biggest issue is an imperfect bevel that I can remedy quite quickly with that stone and then be off to the races! but i'll make sure to keep updating if this is the case or not...
Thanks again everyone for the feedback and support.
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06-06-2017, 07:15 PM #3
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Thanked: 14Great to see your input, eKretz! Could you elaborate more on some of the honing techniques that you use/recommend on "hone/strop/fail cases"? Been using cotis for over 20 years....and am quite familiar and use dilucot, unicot etc..... and still use them as my favorite prefinisher/midrange on most of my blades. As far as finishing goes, on the blades (old carbon) I know they work well, I finish on oil and/or lather (tallow....), with good results, smooth even on ATG passes (after a couple gradual slurry dilutions, as need be). I oil finish in a burnished coti, and do midrange work on another one. In some others, Fridours/Inox, or some sweedish steel/japanese hi-HRC.. etc....they work great for WTG pass, but drag on ATG. I know some people try to use a second bevel to finish (Bart...), and some use running water. To me, the cotis I have been using (over 15-16 over the years...) either worked fine for finishing, or just partially....and those need to be pushed up with something else (Black Surgical Arkansas....I know you have a huge one.....) , but they all, universally, pre-finished great.
Last, but not least, I have used Nakayama Asagi slurry in two coties very successfully. No need for anything else. I do not do this routinely, but when I do, as a variation, the results are great! A great upgrade from coti slurry in terms of finish (not midrange). Tried thuri slurry too, and while better than coti slurry, the jnat slurry breaks down very nicely. We all know cotis vary a lot, and that is one reason for the different experience.....but exchanging strategies on how some people make them work better, would be informative.Last edited by fxt913; 06-06-2017 at 07:19 PM.
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06-06-2017, 08:15 PM #4
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Thanked: 52contrary to what i have read many times, i find the quality of the coticule slurry stone to be very important, like with japanese natural stones. i find it difficult to get a decent edge when the slurry stone is not on a par with the coticule base stone. this may also explain why a jnat slurry may work well on a coticule.
hans
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to brightred For This Useful Post:
dinnermint (06-06-2017), fxt913 (06-06-2017)