Results 1 to 10 of 61
Thread: getting an edge with a coticule
-
06-01-2017, 02:27 PM #1
getting an edge with a coticule
Hello all, seeking some advice here because I've run out of other reading material on the subject. In short, I am unable to achieve an acceptable edge on my straight razor using a coticule.
I started wet shaving a few months ago by buying a SS razor online sold "shave ready", I enjoyed a close shave for some time before it came time to hone the blade which is when I did some research and bought a coticule with a BBW glued to the bottom.
After my first attempt at honing using the dulicot method, the razor was worse than before i started. Nowhere near achieving a HHT at any level. tried again and again, with the same result. in the past month or so i've only been able to get a sharp enough edge to cut a hair a single time. I started trying other honing methods to no avail.
Eventually i bought another coticule just to confirm that the issue is in fact me, and not the stone that i'm working on... same result.
So the question is, after a month of trying to get an acceptable edge and failing, is it time to move to a synthetic or different type of hone? I know the easy answer is to get my blades professionally honed, but i'd like to be self sufficient in this practice. And is this a common issue with first time shavers?
Any input would be welcomed! Thanks
-
06-01-2017, 02:40 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- NYC, NY
- Posts
- 1,496
Thanked: 169Is that your only hone? What is your low grit option? A lot of the time ppl new to this are getting lackluster results because the bevel was not done well.
-
-
06-01-2017, 03:01 PM #3
Yes, it's my lowest grit hone. I think that setting a good bevel may be the issue... though I'm not sure how to correct it. I've tried spending a lot of time getting a good bevel but it's still nowhere near passing a HHT. any suggestions for setting an acceptable bevel? I've been doing varied amounts half x-strokes with some pressure and no pressure.
Do i need a lower grit stone to set a bevel? reason a bought a coticule was because I saw that I could do most of the necessary maintenance/honing on a straight razor with a single stone as long as time and patience is practiced.
-
06-01-2017, 03:04 PM #4
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- NYC, NY
- Posts
- 1,496
Thanked: 169Buy yourself a nice bevel setter, a coticule is not an ideal solution for the bevel work. Shapton pro 1500, naniwa 1000, even something dirt cheap like a suehiro 1000/3000 combo will be an immense upgrade for you.
-
-
06-01-2017, 03:11 PM #5
Thanks, I will do that. Appreciate the help and advice
-
06-01-2017, 03:32 PM #6
- Join Date
- Sep 2014
- Location
- oregun
- Posts
- 24
Thanked: 22I had the same thoughts when I started out. I've had 2 coticules in 3 years and have tried every method out there. Once or twice I got barely acceptable edges, I gave up, threw it in the back of the drawer where it stayed. I get far better edges from a synth. progression. Maybe just a lack of skills on my part but I've had edges honed from 3 different professionals, none were as good for me as what I can get with synthetics.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to ldrider For This Useful Post:
Butzy (06-01-2017)
-
06-01-2017, 03:41 PM #7
I would lean towards looking at a 2000 or 3000 grit hone. If it shaved at one point, yiu should be able to bring it back fast on that. Then the transition is easier, it would be easier still with a hone inbetween, but that depends on your honing frequency and discretionary income.
I'm still not very good with slurry, it truly is an art that takes time. However, you can get there, just be patient. Work on the razor a little bit each day. I would stsrt with a less is more approach with slurry at first and really learn your coti's.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to dinnermint For This Useful Post:
Butzy (06-01-2017)
-
06-01-2017, 03:42 PM #8
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Location
- Virginia, USA
- Posts
- 2,224
Thanked: 481Could be a few factors. You say it was shave ready, but was it hand honed by someone that knew what they were doing or was it the factory edge? If it was the factory edge the bevel was likely set with the spine held a few degrees off the stone, so when you lay it flat on your coticule you're likely honing the shoulder of the bevel and not getting all the way to the edge.
A 1K stone will help set the bevel. Then you have to learn your coticule. Some are intuitive and simple, others (like mine) take finagling. Mine had to be flattened, lapped, polished, burnished, must be used as an oil stone, can not be used with water and must not be used as a slurry stone. Finishing only.
And some are simply not razor stones. Rather than fighting an uphill battle you might be better off shelving the coticule for a little while, and getting a good set of synthetics to learn on. You can pull the coticule out and re-evaluate then later.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Marshal For This Useful Post:
Butzy (06-01-2017)
-
06-01-2017, 04:03 PM #9
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215“So the question is, after a month of trying to get an acceptable edge and failing, is it time to move to a synthetic or different type of hone? I know the easy answer is to get my blades professionally honed, but i'd like to be self sufficient in this practice. And is this a common issue with first time shavers?”
Yes, honing razors is not always as easy as YouTube videos make it look.
And Coticules are the most difficult stone to learn, because they vary so much in performance. Almost anyone that owns a Coticule, own or has owned more than one…
If you razor was shave ready, the bevel is/was already set and most probably did not need a full re-set. But now, who knows?
First, with all razor repair or honing, look at the edge with magnification. What you see, will determine what needs to be done and how.
Do you have magnification and do you know how to determine if the bevels are meeting fully?
The best way to hone on a coticule is under running water, without slurry, but that is if the edge is close to a finish edge. Slurry is a double edge sword and learning, a new natural stone and how to use slurry, compounds the learning process.
Find a local mentor, before you start buying a bunch of stones, but a 4/8 Norton or 3/8 Naniwa is a good stone to start if you intend to hone razors. I don’t know that you need that now, to hone your particular razor at this time.
Find a local mentor for hands on instruction, or begin by reading the first 3 post in the honing forum, and take a look at this post on honing, (My Second Try at Honing) for good micrographs and what to look for when honing a razor.
Posting a photo of your razor and the stone may help advising you further.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Butzy (06-01-2017)
-
06-01-2017, 04:11 PM #10
Thank you so much for the advice guys. I will say that my lack of success is not from lack of reading/watching how-to's and repetition, maybe I just need to get a set of synthetic stones and work out the basics before moving on to the coticule. possibly bit off more than i could chew there.
I am sure the bevel needs to be reset due to the damage i've likely done to it. when i get home tonight i'll upload some pictures of the razor i've been working with, some spine wear has been a result of trial and error as well...
Really appreciate all the good honest advice here!
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Butzy For This Useful Post:
FranfC (06-01-2017)