Thread: White washita?

They differ from stone to stone, but I'd say that you could put a wider range on that. The stone that I use to set bevels is faster than a 1k synthetic stone, but it leaves a better groove geometry and can be followed up more easily with a strong natural. For example, I can set the bevel on a razor and either finish (albeit not necessarily ideally, but very capably) with a washita that has been intentionally allowed to settle in completely (and that has been kept absolutely free of surface contamination), or I can go to something like a soft but reasonably fine suita and work on slurry to clear and have a shave that is at least as good as an 8k synthetic stone, but with a much mellower edge (and I might say, keener than most coticules that I've tried).

I've had a couple of strop-top washita stones (the boxes being strop top) that were being used with razors. They were conditioned a little bit finer than an 8k synthetic, and were on the very fine side for washitas, but still would've set bevels easily if someone lapped them off fresh. (if that makes sense).

It's looking more and more like I should go ahead and lap the other (chipped) side so I will be able to keep one side burnished and one side fresh. That will take some work but it sounds like it will greatly increase the versatility of the stone. I like the prospect of a mellower edge and have relied almost entirely on coticules for that up to this point, but would like to give washitas and arkansas stones a go as well.

I posted somewhere else about a method to use the washita to finish (i may have had two barber shop hones, but they were gotten to that point over years, and your first use of one will probably make a harsh edge).

You may wish to do what you're saying (two sides), and then hit the razor with the linen. Then like 5 strokes or so with very light pressure on the fine side of the stone again, and then the linen, and back and forth until you have an edge you like. It may take 4 or 5 iterations.

Or, you can get a near finish on the washita and then use a mellow final finisher to chill the edge out until or unless the washita is totally broken in.

It is a great stone to learn touch on, though.

Washita and Arkansas stones can be very predictable and repeatable IF you don't ask them to do more than they are capable. The Washita's, as said, seem to have more of a range but even they have their limits and it gets much more difficult when you ask novaculite stones to do more than their range allows. For example, I used to move on before my bevel was set completely figuring I would finish setting it on a soft Arkansas that had settled in. A foolish move as I was there for many many strokes trying to get the bevel to meet. Lesson learned. Once the bevel is set though, it is a very fast and effective stone but only within its own limits. Likewise trying to get a well burnished translucent to do anything more than burnish is futile in my experience BUT take a finished edge and within a few minutes I have turned that into something special. I think this also holds true for any stone natural or synthetic but it was a lesson I learned the hard way on Arkansas and Washita stones.

I lapped the other side of the stone and got the big chip out but these small cavities keep opening up. They're in the stone, as soon as I get close to lapping some out, others start to open. So, if this side is unusable at least the other side is good.

These are some other stones (with the white one on the right) I have that I suspect are novaculite too.

This one has pinkish banding

This one is light greyish

This one feels finer, harder and denser

Originally Posted by xiaotuzi

I lapped the other side of the stone and got the big chip out but these small cavities keep opening up. They're in the stone, as soon as I get close to lapping some out, others start to open. So, if this side is unusable at least the other side is good.

You could probably still use the holey side for coarse work. But you have enough stones that you don't have to do that.