Thread: Bevel setter upgrade

I use the Naniwa 1k traditional. It was recommended by Lynn Abrams. Does a first rate job. I then go to my Naniwa 5k, 8k, 12k and then 7-10 laps on my Escher and lastly to my Mastro Livi Chromium oxide and skin on the loom strop. I find my best results come honing under running water. I have used JNats but find I get very good results with the Naniwa's and it is faster then the JNat progression.

Originally Posted by jkatzman

I use the Naniwa 1k traditional. It was recommended by Lynn Abrams. Does a first rate job. I then go to my Naniwa 5k, 8k, 12k and then 7-10 laps on my Escher and lastly to my Mastro Livi Chromium oxide and skin on the loom strop. I find my best results come honing under running water. I have used JNats but find I get very good results with the Naniwa's and it is faster then the JNat progression.

I purchased one at the start of the summer, precisely because of Lynn's recommendation and his companion YouTube video. It's been nothing short of successful.

Ditto the running water! This is one thirsty stone. After first soaking for half-an-hour, lapping, and half-a-dozen back-and-forth "X" strokes, it looked to be dry as a bone; spritzed some water on it then tried again -- no change; back in the Tupperware for another half-hour, then another try, only to see no slaking of its thirst; so... (as you wrote) I realized that bevel-setting was going to be done under running water, and moved the operation into the kitchen sink. Problem solved!

Speaking of "X" strokes, something that is, for me, a "negative" about the Naniwa Traditional 1K (as well as their Super Stone and Professional offerings) is its width -- it's only 70mm (2.76"), rather than "normal" 80mm (3.15"). I know... "suck it up, JB"

My progression continues from the Naniwa Traditional 1K -> Norton 4K -> Norton 8K -> Spyderco 306UF and thence to a Tony Miller 3" Red Latigo strop.

Unless you are pro-honing or doing a lot of restoration work, where you must set new bevels each time, If you are just maintaining a handful of razors, once bevel set, you may never need to fully set them again on a 1k.

Yes, some stones are a bit harder, softer, slower, faster, need more water or less, but they all will set a bevel within a few seconds of each other, and 1k grit will leave 1k stria. And you can set a bevel on anything from 600 to 4k easily, even a 12k.

I have use most of the 1k stones available and own several of them. One of my favorites is the least expensive, the King 1k. I have 3, picking them up at flea markets for a couple bucks. It is soft-er, likes a lot of water and needs flattening more than some. But I soak my stones in a tub, and lap them before use anyway, so its faults are a non- issue for me. I use the King, Nubatama, Chosera, and Norton 1k depending on my mood. They all work the same and I doubt anyone could tell the difference by looking at the completed bevels.

The bottom line is, if it takes a few more laps or a couple more squirts of water, spend your money on a finisher, synthetic or natural, now that can make a big difference and keep you shaving very well for the rest of your life. Any 1k will set a bevel, seconds after you set the bevel, those bevel faces will be removed by the next stone in the progression, so how much does the quality of the 1k stone really matter?

Don’t over think this, learn to recognize when a bevel is fully set, not how much water or how many laps it takes to get there.

The Naniwa 1k/3k combo -- an economical stone -- was my first stone when I started to learn how to set my own bevels and do some minor repairs. This aside, it worked well with good feedback and a speed that, at least for hobbyist purposes, was entirely fine.

Although I appreciated it at the time, I would call buying this stone a mistake for a couple of reasons: first, as kamots mentioned, it's a smaller stone. In itself, that's not a problem, but for learning something with more real estate, like a 3x8, is definitely is better choice. Also, as a few people have mentioned, it's a thirsty, thirsty stone which also leads to a tendency for longer soaks. Certainly this is what I did, soaking between 20 and 30 minutes, but the 1k side also ended up cracking, I believe precisely because of the longer soak times (now I have three small 1K hones!).

I can't verify this but I'm under the impression that the traditional is made of the same materials and binders as the economical stone, so even if it has the larger working area I'm still not sure I would recommend it as I would worry about both how much water it takes and the potential for cracking. I realize that it's cheaper, but if you're going to go the Naniwa route for the slightly greater initial investment I would definitely say go with the 10mm thick specialty stone.

Anyhow, that's just been my (admittedly very limited) experience, tacked on at the end of a thread with lots of really good advice from some really knowledgeable and experienced folks.

If I want to minimize steps to the 12k what would you recommend? Could I go straight to a 5k and then the 12 or would that be too much work to get the scratches out? Maybe a 3k and 8K would be ok?

The 5k is three micron. It can follow the 1k (the abrasive is aggressive - the very close steps are good insurance, but not necessary if you remove all of the work of the prior stone).

I'd imagine with stones as strong as shaptons and chosera, more than a 3 stone rotation is never required. If you had five, whatever you spent on each of the last two pairs could probably just be spent on the finer of the two and you'll get done just as fast.

I've never been in love with the shapton 12/15 pro or 16k glasstone (or chosera 10k for that matter, or even the sigma power 13000) as a finisher. Once in a while, you get a razor that won't tolerate them for some reason.

Maybe a 5k and 8k Pro will be a good plan for the money. I have plenty of options to finish on already. Yellow Green Thuri, Vintage Coti, CNAT, or Nani 12 to SG 20. Just need to get a couple of middle ground stones to replace that Norton.

5 and 8 are almost the same stone. About 3 and 2 micron, respectively. I'd do 2 and 8k if I were you.

Interesting. Since I end on a 12K what about going 1-5-12? Or is this too much? I’m not sure where to find the conversions.

Originally Posted by IMightBeWrong

Interesting. Since I end on a 12K what about going 1-5-12? Or is this too much? I’m not sure where to find the conversions.

Welcome IMightBeWrong!

I try to roughly double the grit ratings at each step. My normal bevel setter is a Shapton Pro 2k and I follow it with a 5k and 8k Pro, then finish on a jnat, but you could go from 5k to 12 without problems I think, maybe a few extra strokes.

Cheers, Steve