Thread: A couple of quetions about hones

Hi guys,

I want to talk hones and hopefully get some advice/opinions.

I have 220/1K Norton 4k/8k Norton and 12k Nanaiwa SS. I also have 400/1K Diamond Plate.

First what are the general opinions regarding the Nortons, are they highly rated or stones that nobody except new honers use?

I am considering a 600 Chosera, is it a regular start to a bevel set progression to 1K or is it a stone that's rarely going to be used?

Shaptons cost a lot more, what is the reason and are they some sort of super magical stones.

My Diamond plate was real rough on the 400 side when I got it on Saturday. I lapped my 220/1k Norton, corrected a stabilizer and actually tried honing on it and probably caused some nice chips in my edge.

The 400 has gone from really rough to really smooth, not what I would expect a 400 to feel like. Should I return it or is supposed to go like that?

Lastly, and I have asked a friend here what he thought so no disrespect intended, I am just interested in the general consensus.

When my razors start to pull a bit and need a touch up on my 12K Naniwa, is there any reason why I can't use my Trans Ark instead?

My own opinion here, but you really don't need anything courser than 1K hone for setting a bevel and that is only if it has big chips or other major problems. Otherwise a 3K or 4K hone can set a bevel nicely and not leave as deep striations as the 1K making it easier to remove those striations on the next hone in your progression. My finish hone is a 12K Naniwa. If I bevel set on a 1K Naniwa then I go to a 3K Naniwa followed by an 8K Naniwa then the 12K Naniwa. If you catch the edge before it deteriorates too much a 12K hone should be all you need

I only use a diamond plate to lap my hones or reshape the heel to get the stabiliser off the hone. It can be damaging to the edge if used for honing as you have found out.

Bob

Never used a Norton, though they were the go to hone back in the day, the Naniwas bumped them out.

Norton's need to be soaked, constantly.
Naniwas... Wet n hone away.

600 should be left for knives, it's a bit course for a razors delicate edge. 1k is perfect for razors.

For the diamond plate.

I use a worn, fine grt (red) for making slurry.

I use my med grt. ( blue ) for bread knifing, or reshaping the heels.

1k chosera... bevel setter
Progression..5,8,12. If I were to use my synthetics. But I much prefer a natural progression, after bevel set.

To refresh...I'd step back to a 8k, then finish on 12k. If you like the Ark edge, then apply it after the 12k.

Its just faster than trying to hone out the 8k stria, with the slooow Arks.

That's my opinion, YMMV

Just a question:

I see (and I'm testing too this way) many reputable guys going from Sinth 1K directly to a fine/hard Jnat (& naguras/tomos of course).
So, i was guessing if isn't too much stress for the edge an 1/3/5/8/12 K synthetic pyramid (as many others do)?
Aren't these too near each other?
Couldn't be an 1/5/8 (or 10/12) K enough to get a good polished bevel?

Originally Posted by Skorpio58

Just a question:

I see (and I'm testing too this way) many reputable guys going from Sinth 1K directly to a fine/hard Jnat (& naguras/tomos of course).
So, i was guessing if isn't too much stress for the edge an 1/3/5/8/12 K synthetic pyramid (as many others do)?
Aren't these too near each other?
Couldn't be an 1/5/8 (or 10/12) K enough to get a good polished bevel?

I go 1/4/8/12

I haven’t had to reset a bevel in quite a while, but when I did, my progressions was 1k, (4k, 8k Norton), combo coticule and then a finish polish using a Vermio or Oozuko.

I have a 30k Shapton Glass (the small version for knives, so not a lot of $$$), but it never really seemed to get me where my natural polishing stones did, so it only comes out occasionally when I want to see what it can do.

Regular maintenance stropping includes chromium oxide on a paddle strop about every 5th shave.

When a blade’s edge feels like it needs a refresh, I usually use the BBW side of the combo coti followed by the coti side. Occasionally I try the 30k Shapton, but it has never really worked for me.

Originally Posted by STF

I go 1/4/8/12

As fast as the Naniwas are, 1,5,8,12, was a perfect progression. Its fast, and very consistent. My only dislike, was the 12k edge. The edge from the synthetics, were a bit too crisp, for my skin. But I could go to a natural finisher, after the 12k, to make what my skin likes.

Now I just use the 1k chosera for bevel setting, and then a natural progression, to finish.

First let’s separate two issue. Restoration and general honing. I do a lot of restoration work, particularly on heavier grands, as a result, I get some use out of my Chosera 600 grit. It gets used when taking a razor with no identifiable bevel and starts to get it formed, before the bevel is even set, I move on to the 1K with slurry, and work to clean.
Everything else I start on the 1K or higher. I examine with a loupe and identify where I should begin.
For the average person honing razors, a 600 has no real place.
PS
I started on the Norton set and honed until they were getting fragile thin. Good hones but not as nice as a Chosera.

Yes...in the aspect of restoration of heavy, near wedges.
I have the Naniwa, 220,400,600,800.

Only reason I have the 220, is for things, other than razors.
If I need to remove a lot of steel along an edge ( reshape/bread knife, shape to spine/ lg.chips ) or reshape a heel, its a diamond plate.

I started with Norton stones. I got tired of soaking so stepped up to the Naniwas. Now I use the Shapton Glass. Its just a progression and starting to learn with Norton is just fine.