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Thread: Strop and paste vs. hone

  1. #31
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    Thanks. Is that the balsa you use with paste? Their balsa board is in the video...

  2. #32
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkC View Post
    Thanks. Is that the balsa you use with paste? Their balsa board is in the video...
    I have a paddle strop they sold years ago with balsa on one side and hard felt on the other - about 2” wide. I use chromium oxide on the balsa side and diamond spray on the felt.

    I seldom use the felt side anymore. My normal progression is coticule => Vermio or Oozuko => chromium oxide => 10 turns on linen => 20 turns on leather. I hit the chromium oxide before stropping if I feel the edge is starting to diminish.
    David
    “Shared sorrow is lessened, shared joy is increased”
    ― Spider Robinson, Callahan's Crosstime Saloon

  3. #33
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I would be suspect. “The white compound is aluminum oxide based, with a grade of 9000 grit. The green paste is chromium oxide based, and is rated at .5 micron, which is the equivalent of approximately 50,000 grit.”

    “Chromium Oxide based” If it were pure Chrome Oxide they would say so. And they market it as knife polishing compound. Most polishing compounds contain Aluminum Oxide to cut quicker.

    You can buy pure Chrome Oxide from Kremers Pigments No #44200.12100.136 $10, for 100 grams. About 3.5 oz. more than you will ever need.

    I made strops from Pellon a fabric backing material, and from Sail Cloth, a polyester canvas. You can buy both from any fabric store pelon is about $5 per yard and Sailcloth about $10. Both work with Chrome Oxide.

    Pellon is like Tyvek house wrap but comes in different thickness and not as shiny, it holds paste well.] Make sure not to get the glue backed one. Comes in 36 - 45 inch width, so a yard will make a bunch of strops.

    I use Pellon with CBN and Diamond. Buy the mid weight about the thickness of cardstock.


    Here is the link.
    (shop.kremerpigments.com)
    32t and rolodave like this.

  4. #34
    Senior Member IndependenceRazor1's Avatar
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    Tristant udlow posted: I mostly use natural combos and I use them dry. I've tried everything from slurry to water to oil and lather. [The edge are different with these different methods, dry just delivers the best edges for me, otherwise they're just not as keen.]
    It's all personal preference, but dry honing, as was rarely suggested at the time, works wonders for my edge, ymmv.
    After you use them dry for a while, they only become better. The skin feel for me is unrivaled. Not everyone likes 'em and I'm not saying they're gonna work for you; but for me it ended my search for stones. (I have a La Veinette, a La Grise, La Nouvelle Veine, La Petite Blanche, etc. they all work, no need to chase an expensive vein, all my vintage ones work just as well)

    ME;
    Been struggling for several days with an old, German 6/8 Kratz that used to be one of my best shavers.
    Even though still full width and no hone wear - every natural - including a BBW wet with slurry - and synthetic I have just gave a bunch of microchips.
    Tried: dry BBW, followed by dry Swaty, crox, horsehide strop
    Now she loves me again.

    Thank you for a really get tip.
    Last edited by IndependenceRazor1; 02-28-2021 at 06:24 PM.
    My father was an engineer. He used to tell me that sharpening a straight razor is like trying to build a ladder to the moon out of a roll of aluminum foil.

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