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  1. #1
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    I now have the Naniwa, Superstone 800/5000 and a Naniwa Chosera 10K.

    I set the bevel with the 800, move onto the 5000, then 10000 and then a few laps on CrOx and then strop. Quick simple efficient and very effective.
    A smooth shave ready razors edge every time.

    Unbelievably boring really.

    The observation I would make is that the Chosera is a harder stone than the Superstone. This said, the Chosera is a much softer hone than I am used to and the Superstones are very soft.

    All three grits get "dirty" very quickly and the rubbing stone cleans them back to new again very quickly.

    As to the life of the hones. Well, they are not like a coticule. They release the surface very easily because they are so soft. This combined with the need to clean them with a surface releasing rubbing stone, means the surface is breaking down quite quickly relative to a harder stone.

    So I think a professional will find the hone will not last as long as say a Chinese 12k but the stone hones like grease lightning. Time is money. Naniwa knows that and has priced the stones accordingly.

    I hope that helps explain some of the differences.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to English For This Useful Post:

    pjrage (04-19-2009), zib (04-19-2009)

  3. #2
    zib
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    I agree. I just used my Naniwa 12k on a probem child razor, an old Puma 90. It's one of those razors that no matter what you do it shaves so so. I tried all kinds of combos with it. I'm still working. This time, I used the Naniwa 12k as my finisher (hone wise) that is. Sometimes, I'll go to Diamond pastes and/or Crox. Depends on the blade. Anwyay, The naniwa 12k did need some lapping. I started with my D8XX, moved to a D8C, then the whole progression of Wet/Dry Sanpaper. 220 - 1000K. It's a beautiful soft salmon color stone. I did only about 15 passes on the Naniwa 12k, it's fast. To me, less is more. When hear guys talking about doing 200 passes on their coticule I cringe. There is such a thing as "Overhoning". If your not using a Chinese 12k, then move to a differerent grit. Anyway, getting off track.

    I think the Naniwa line of stones are well worth the money. Easy to lapp. Easy to use and fast cutters. I bought mine off Don and Lynn. Don as always was very helpful. I'll probably buy the entire line. I'd like to see what they'll do from start to finish. You can buy all of them 10k,8k, 5k,3k, 1k, 400k, 220k at SRD for under 300 bucks. I left out the 12k because I already have it...What I especially like about these stones is the speed of cutting. You don't have to do 50 or 100 laps like you do on a C12k. I not giving up my C12k, now, I do have my HAD to think about it.
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    Do the superstones come with a rubbing stone? English mentioned one so that made me wonder.

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    I received a rubbing stone only with the Chosera and not with the superstone.

    You can buy them seperately.

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    Quote Originally Posted by English View Post
    I received a rubbing stone only with the Chosera and not with the superstone.

    You can buy them seperately.
    Is it advisable to buy one for the super stones? Or is there an alternative that maybe most of us already have?

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    I wonder if the Norton rubbing stone would be adequate?

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    Senior Member matt321's Avatar
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    A little off topic, but I use the Norton synthetic nagura on my Naniwa and other waterstones to do the following things:

    1. You can use it to adjust the surface texture of the stone, i.e. smooth the surface left by a coarse lapping plate, or roughen the surface if it seems too smooth so that blades skip and chatter. Just scour the surface and corners and then rinse away the grit very thoroughly.

    2. You can use it to clean away stains and embedded swarf without resorting to lapping if that isn't needed yet. Same process as above.

    3. You can use it to form a coarse, fast cutting slurry. Scour the surface but don't rinse. This will really boost cutting speed (at the expense of fineness).

  9. #8
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    I used a nagura stone and that worked on the Chosera. But I think you have to be careful not to use a stone that is too hard.

    I don't have any norton products.
    Last edited by English; 04-20-2009 at 06:06 PM.

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    zib
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    Don @ SRD recommended no rubbing stone with the superstone.

    To be exact, no slurry. he said you should go to a lower grit if you need to. I agree with the Naniwa. It's very and fine and porous. I saw a pic on here of one that probably swelled from water. Using a slurry IMO is probably not a good idea. I'd agree with Don and Lynn on that one.....
    Last edited by zib; 04-21-2009 at 03:49 PM.
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  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by zib View Post
    Don @ SRD recommended no rubbing stone with the superstone.

    To be exact, no slurry. he said you should go to a lower grit if you need to. I agree with the Naniwa. It's very and fine and porous. I saw a pic on here of one that probably swelled from water. Using a slurry IMO is probably not a good idea. I'd agree with Don and Lynn on that one.....
    I wonder if it's recommended/advisable to use a rubbing stone with the supers just to freshen the surface between lappings? English mentioned that even the super stones get "dirty" quickly and that the rubbing stone quickly refreshes them. I don't think he meant to create a slurry with it?

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