Thread: German Synthetic Hones... HELP!

Originally Posted by StraightRazorDave

If they're both the same price, I would just go for the nortons. They could be used on your knives too so there's no risk.

Plus, many members here are familiar with the nortons so you could easily get help from them if you are having trouble.

+1 .....if you have difficulty with the Henckels, no one is going to be able to give much guidance....Norton on the other hand is being used or has at some point been used significantly by many people at SRP

Thanks all. That was a really useful exchange.

I'm no expert on anything, not even close, so I can't tell you if they're good or bad. But it makes no sense to me to say that they would be bad for your razors because they aren't made for razors, and I can't imagine that Henckels would put their name on a product that is no good in general. So logic says that they won't damage your razors, but "tradition" says to stick with what's known. You're going to have to decide which one is more persuasive to you.

If it were me (and you should take this with a grain of salt as I'm a reckless guy at times) and I had the money, I'd buy the German ones because I'm a "path less traveled" kind of guy. But again, that's just me.

Originally Posted by khaos

Jim- earlier you mentioned that you would say why not? Could you give me a worst case scenario? Lets say absolute worst. Zeepk worst. Would it actively ruin the razor, or just not hone at all, or just not hone very well (ie hones, but NEEDS finishing)? Actually, can everyone who wants to please chime in here? And I don't mean to be rude, but please only give a response and reason, Olivia and Jim I wish I could thank you ten times, because even though your disagreement doesn't help me decide (if you both agreed or disagreed it would be an easy decision) but it lets me see the whole issue clearer. And Olivia, if you are able to hold and touch one and look at it, that would be amazing help. I am mostly interested in if it is feasible or not, the quality is less of an issue (I feel like an idiot saying that). IF IT WILL WORK, I would like to subject myself as a guinea pig. Maybe this is a new kind of hone. If I recall other posts correctly, the Norton wasn't really popular til Lynn worked out how to hone it. Now I'm definately not claiming to be Lynn, but if it is workable, I would be willing to tackle it.
PS: I checked my knives, they are all stamped with Solingen and I believe they were made there. Nice.

Tomorrow I am going to phone them up and ask about where the stone comes from (as in where its contracted, not mined, I'm no idiot...). If it seems decent I'm gonna go with the Henckels. But right now I'm leanign towards getting Nortons to find out what its like/to learn, then I'll pass em on to someone else and buy the Henckels, and if they aren't good, I'm planning on eventually getting BBW/coticules anyway, so... if the Henckels are good they'll last till then, if not, they'll serve as helper hones or knife hones and I'll use the natural stuff for honing.

You know that its japanese grit size index what they are talking about?
Just found a comment on Amazon.
Its harder than a japanese and doesn't clog fast.
No need to water for long.

Isn't norton as well?

Conversion Chart Abrasives - Grit Sizes

Here is a chart, but it doesn't give ANSI (American Standard) grits higher than 1200.

I have a couple of questions for you. When we refer to 1000 grit sand paper, are we talking P1000 or ANSI 1000? Also, what does Norton use? All charts I have seen ANSI and FEPA grits do not go above about 2000. Finally, if you check out this chart: http://straightrazorpalace.com/attac...5-17-09-1-.pdf
You'lll see a Shapton 12k only compares to 2000 grit ANSI and F2000 FEPA. You will also find that the only two stones that use similar grit ratings are Norton and DMT, Shapton's 8k is far smoother than Norton and DMT's 8k, and 8k ANSI or FEPA seems unattainable.

I guess this is further proof that grit means absolutely **** because we've been comparing a Norton 8k to a Shapton 8k, when the 8k means two different things...

Yes thats a problem with grit charts in common. They have holes in the higher ranges cause nobody can really measure that fine stuff with a mesh sieve.

The finishing stone would be 3000 / 6000 JIS, that would mean 1000 / 1500 FEPA or a 1200/ 2000 ANSI (Estimated, cause my chart ends at 1200 for ANSI)

Can you let me know where that comment was, I can't find it. And what are you saying? That it is actually a rougher grit than I think it is?