Thread: naniwa

Originally Posted by Utopian

I agree about the 220 Norton/Naniwa comparison. I think the reason that the Norton works better is because it is so soft, maybe even too soft, that the slurry ends up forming sort of a paste. Because it is constantly releasing grit, it is also constantly refreshing its surface. The Naniwa 220 is relatively hard and seems to load up quickly. It cuts great right after lapping it but it doesn't continue to cut the way the Norton does. I try to move up to the 400 as quickly as possible after the 220.

Interesting thought. I find the Norton 220 actually to be a hard stone, but a very granular stone with accounts for the breakdown and slurry formation. The Naniwa Super 220 (Resin Bond) and even the Shapton Glass 220 (Ceramic) function in a very similar manner and as indicated load up quickly. I usually try to go to the 1K after the 220.

Lynn

Originally Posted by Lynn

Interesting thought. I find the Norton 220 actually to be a hard stone, but a very granular stone with accounts for the breakdown and slurry formation. The Naniwa Super 220 (Resin Bond) and even the Shapton Glass 220 (Ceramic) function in a very similar manner and as indicated load up quickly. I usually try to go to the 1K after the 220.

Lynn

"Interesting thought," code for wtf are you talking about? I have a difficult time with describing any hone as hard or soft, and it really doesn't make sense to do so. Granular is a much better description for the Norton.

I go to the 400 just because it gets me away from the loaded 220 faster. I of course only use either of those hones on blades that have significant damage. The real goal is to get to that fantastic Naniwa 1k as quickly as possible for the bevel setting.

DC, isnt the naniwa 150 the Omaru, not the superstones?

Originally Posted by Ben325e

DC, isnt the naniwa 150 the Omaru, not the superstones?

To many lines to remember what any one naniwa came from It's a dence grey brick and it's not overly thursty. Bugger saves me tons of time when fixing abused hard steel knives

I'm still pretty new to these as I only got them a few days ago (5,8,12).
I'm curious about people's experience w/ the 12k soaking up a lot of water--mine seems very thirsty.

I'm also wondering how often they need to be lapped--I lapped them flat when I got them & then did most of my razors. They were wet for over an hour. I just checked them today & they need to be lapped again. Do they sort of even out after some use or did I leave them wet for too long? I just hope I didn't damage them--they look fine; just a little bit dished. Nothing my D8C couldn't remedy.

EDIT: re-lapped them--they seem fine, but I'm still curious.

Originally Posted by PA23-250

I'm still pretty new to these as I only got them a few days ago (5,8,12).
I'm curious about people's experience w/ the 12k soaking up a lot of water--mine seems very thirsty.

I'm also wondering how often they need to be lapped--I lapped them flat when I got them & then did most of my razors. They were wet for over an hour. I just checked them today & they need to be lapped again. Do they sort of even out after some use or did I leave them wet for too long? I just hope I didn't damage them--they look fine; just a little bit dished. Nothing my D8C couldn't remedy.

EDIT: re-lapped them--they seem fine, but I'm still curious.

I have just got full set and i lapped them on same as you dmtc as for soaking up water on 12k and mine did'nt i don't hone right to the end of the hone i finish my stroke about a good inch or two from edge keep a puddle of water on my surface even my 1k did'nt soak up water. They sy don't soak them but i just soak mine or run water over them for two minutes i think it s better.the 12k only needs 10 to 20 strokes there no way you could of dished it at that many strokes i gave mine a serious lapping probably to much may be after laping they could be porous for a little while my wern't especial compared to nortons they are porous especialy 1k. hope this helps i'm just going to check my 12k see how it is now it has dryed and rested.

I've never soaked mine--just spashed some water on top & that's it. Interestingly, if I lightly move a finger across the top (on the 12k), I can almost feel a kind of gritty start & stop--the 5k is butter smooth wet or dry & the 8k is almost as smooth. I felt this when honing too--I figured it was just a technique thing (needing even less pressure)--now I'm not so sure.

One other thing: do any of your hones have a sort of speckled look to them after lapping? My 12k is the most speckled--could these "things" be expanding @ a different rate than the rest of the hone & causing the bumpiness? I'm really hoping I didn't get a defective one.

My brand new Naniwas did get a speckled look after lapping. I got 1k/5k/8k/12k from SRD. (Haven't touched the 1K yet.)

I lapped each of them twice with a DMT8C 325. I was not able to finish the 2nd lapping on the 8k and 12k. Each has a bit of pencil line in one or two corners that won't go away even after 30+ minutes of lapping! I think the DMT might be getting loaded up or otherwise dulled. I tried cleaning it with a stiff brush under running water but that didn't help. This concerns me because if the DMT is loaded up I may have transferred coarser grit to finer hone and may need to do this all over again!

I am using the stones as is and just avoiding the far corners -- less than half inch of pencil line.

Haven't yet shave-tested the razor I honed.

I lapped each of them twice with a DMT8C 325. I was not able to finish the 2nd lapping on the 8k and 12k. Each has a bit of pencil line in one or two corners that won't go away even after 30+ minutes of lapping! I think the DMT might be getting loaded up or otherwise dulled. I tried cleaning it with a stiff brush under running water but that didn't help. This concerns me because if the DMT is loaded up I may have transferred coarser grit to finer hone and may need to do this all over again!

Same thoughts here. I just honed as-is & didn't go to the last 10 mm or so. Could be that. Or could be they actually do need to be lapped more in the beginning, despite what Naniwa says. The first time I used them was right after the initial lapping and after drying, they definitely needed more lapping the next day. In any case, I'm very interested to try a shave-test tomorrow.

I found the corners took some shifting with my dmtc its not that old but did make me wonder so i used 600 wet and dry then used my dmtc to lap again and rounded corners of. i lay my hone on piece of glas and so long as it does rock around by pressing on corners it got to be flatt i must of lapped mine at least 4 times. I'm also use to the bbw/coti i love honing on those two i don't think you can beat the feeling and results they give great smoothness but yoy will find working on 5k/8k first will give sharpness then followed by 12 i tryed bbw s coti w and gives a great edge. When i used naniwas on tere own i did'nt get that wow even thought they are new. when i first touched a razor up with blue then yellow i thought these a exallant i think they take some beating.