Thread: best bang for the buck

forget about dmtc go get Norton 220/1k ( i really think you will not use 220 never .i have not used yet only ones for breadknifing). i use always 1k sometimes takes time but at least i don't waste metal
if you need more higher grit stone questions just shoot your questions.

Originally Posted by jballs918

i got a few razors that are in pretty bad shape. so i pose this question for you all. im looking for a 220

As a newb, I will definitely yield to both gugi and jimmyHAD's judgement. I too wouldn't really use a DMT on a razor if there were a better alternative, just he had said they were in bad shape so I imagined a chip and rust and stuff so I though the DMT might be a good option.

If you read Lynn on honing you'll find that he goes to the 220 if necessary. It is only for razors that need a lot of metal removed but it is a time saver under those circumstances. Best for someone who knows there way around a hone. You can make matters worse pretty quick if you don't know what you're doing.

The best bang for buck in that grit range is sandpaper stuck to a glass plate with double stick tape. It gets the job done every time, and it's easy to maintain, just slap another piece, no cleaning or lapping. U can go up to 2000 or whatever finer you can find...

cheers,
Nenad

I really think you could hone one razor everyday for the rest of your life and not use up all of any of these stones. I think most here would agree.

Why not simply get a DMT 11EF? That's a 1200 grit (approx), and won't need lapping, etc, ever?

I have a 2x6 version, and have used it on many, many Ebay restores. I'm thinking to go out and get the 11, to get a longer pass length so I can sharpen my razors more efficiently.

Gugi has a point. Go for what suits you best.
Don't dismiss the DMT's too easily.

The DMT-C can be used for lapping. (something you are going to need anyway)
It is very fast for doing heavy bevel rebuild. It can create a new bevel from scratch in 10-15 minutes. Try that on any other hone in that grit range. Even if you never going to rebuild a bevel, you still need a lapping plate for your other hones.

It does not dish. It does not glaze. It does not need prior soaking. It is not very expensive. It lasts a very long time.

It does leave a sawtooth edge, but so do most coarse hones. The roughness on that edge can easily be cleaned up with a DMT-F at 600 grit. DMT even sells a doublesided version with both grits.

Now, just maybe, perhaps, they might not leave the finest edge you'll find in that grit range. But who cares? You aim for speed and ease of use at that stage. An important note: a razor comes from the factory with a bevel that would normally never need these coarse hones. Only blades with some defect (rust, chips, small cracks) will ever need them.

Once you are done at the next hone (whether that's a Shapton 2K, a Norton, Naniwa, a Coticule with slurry or even a DMT-E(1200), no one will able to see where your now completely restored edge came from.

At the heavy steel removal stages (220-1K), invest in speed.
At the refinement stages (2K-8K) invest in edge uniformity.
At the finishing stages, invest in smoothness.

As you can see, lot's of different opinions here on SRP. They almost all lead to edges that shave well, let's keep that in mind.

Best regards,
Bart.