Thread: Removing Naniwa 1cm bases?

So I'm wondering, has anyone ever removed the base from their 1cm Naniwa super stones? Is it safe to do?

I'm just wondering because I'm up to 4 super stones and those bases take up valuable space. I want to take them off but I'm afraid the stones might be kind of soft/fragile without them. Anyone tried it? I know people have 2cm stones without bases...

heating up the base (blow dryer for example) softens the glue and makes it easier to remove the base.
The SS are resin bound, so they tend to bend when there is no base attache to them. I would suggest to glue the stone to a granite or 1/2" glass plate cut to size, to avoid the bending.

Originally Posted by mainaman

heating up the base (blow dryer for example) softens the glue and makes it easier to remove the base.
The SS are resin bound, so they tend to bend when there is no base attache to them. I would suggest to glue the stone to a granite or 1/2" glass plate cut to size, to avoid the bending.

Do you know if this bending happens with the 20mm naniwas too?

Originally Posted by ursus

Do you know if this bending happens with the 20mm naniwas too?

yes when they become too thin,less than 1 cm.
I think Naniwa SS is a great stone at high grits, but lousy stone ot low grits.
I have had 1k SS and frankly I found it average, now I have 1K Chosera and that is imo the ultimate 1k stone. Another great 1k stone (I have not tried but heard a lot of good about) is Sigma power hard version.
@ High grits SS wears really really slow so a 2cm one will last forever, due to very slow dishing, for sharpening knives and even longer for razors only.

Originally Posted by ursus

Do you know if this bending happens with the 20mm naniwas too?

I've got the 20mm Naniwas and the 15mm Shapton pros. IME either of these polymer resin based hones have to be flattened every honing session. It is a very slight amount and some people might use them without flattening but if you put a pencil grid on them you'll find that over a day or two they will change and will need lapping to be absolutely flat.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I've got the 20mm Naniwas and the 15mm Shapton pros. IME either of these polymer resin based hones have to be flattened every honing session. It is a very slight amount and some people might use them without flattening but if you put a pencil grid on them you'll find that over a day or two they will change and will need lapping to be absolutely flat.

Himmmmmmmmmm
Is this a new Problem?
Jimmy you know my mailing address just ship every single Naniwa's i will handle that problem. don't need shapton's.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

I've got the 20mm Naniwas and the 15mm Shapton pros. IME either of these polymer resin based hones have to be flattened every honing session. It is a very slight amount and some people might use them without flattening but if you put a pencil grid on them you'll find that over a day or two they will change and will need lapping to be absolutely flat.

I noticed that too...I noticed they felt funny, and checked with a straight edge, and what do you know...they were off. Which is odd, I don7t do that much honing at all...

Thanks. Have you noticed if Norton 4/8k displays the same tendency to warp?

Originally Posted by JimR

I noticed that too...I noticed they felt funny, and checked with a straight edge, and what do you know...they were off. Which is odd, I don7t do that much honing at all...

It is the nature of the beast. When I first was trying to decide whether to go with Shapton pro or glass I googled a good bit and found a fellow posting on knife forums and on the Shapton USA forum who was complaining about the phenomenon.

I felt some trepidation but I went ahead and ordered them anyway. I found that they do change and for best results lapping is in order. I can't say for the GlassStones but I suspect they would be the same ?

OTOH, perhaps that is why Shapton went with the 5mm bonded to glass ... to keep them flat .... as opposed to the 15mm of the professional series ?

Forum member Blaireau is a scientist .... an award winning scientist BTW... in the field of polymers. Here is an old post by him on this topic explaining why they need to be lapped before each honing session. If I understand his explanation correctly the glass stones would need to be lapped first as well.

Originally Posted by JimR

I noticed that too...I noticed they felt funny, and checked with a straight edge, and what do you know...they were off. Which is odd, I don7t do that much honing at all...

I have not seen any signs of warping on my 10k SS 2 cm, they dish really slow though.
You live in Japan, have you tried Chosera? They are so much cheaper than here in US, and pretty much better stones than the SS line.