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Thread: Norton 8000 feature or flaw?
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03-10-2010, 07:17 PM #11
+1 on the work with Norton for resolution.
Any quality vendor needs feedback and will do the right thing
by their customers. I was pleased but surprised by the advice here that
the surface of a new Norton often needs to be lapped away
but the improvement was real for me. The advice also made
sense the more I considered how a resin bonded hone might be made.
Take a jar of resin add a lot of super classified abrasive, mix very
very well, pour or extrude into a mold, cure the resin in an oven.
As anyone that has made a cake, candy or tried to cast bugs
and shells in plastic knows "bubbles are possible".
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03-10-2010, 07:35 PM #12
I'm pretty sure they wouldn't be using a resin process for a stone like this. Resinoid abrasives are usually found in thin, reinforced metal cutting wheels or thick walled cups using very coarse abrasives. These are usually identifiable as resin based wheels turn dark brown/black after the oven, regardless of the color of the abrasive grain.
If anything, it would be a vitrified product, where the finished prdict has a color closer to that of the raw abrasive grain.
Oxychloride and Latex based wheels will have a more whitish to greyish blue tinge from the bonding agents.
Now I'm really going on memory here. 20 years ago, I worked in a grinding wheel factory for 3 summers (student work). Learned a lot about it at the time.
We did resinoid, vitrifed, oxychloride monster wheels as well as latex knife grinding wheels.Last edited by Desdinova; 03-10-2010 at 07:39 PM.
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03-10-2010, 08:04 PM #13
Good VS Evil
My combination 4k/8k Norton, which I purchased new back in early '08, is from Mexico. The 8k side is good, the 4k side was good for a while and then problems began. It has those microholes that pick up swarf, and the lodged swarf caused horrible chipping on my blade. I found I couldn't even do backhoning with it, it turned so gritty. Just a bad stone. It's an angel/devil stone, or a Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde stone. It started out nice, turned bad. Who knows, maybe if I dedicated myself to lapping off a ton of material it would turn "nice" again?
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03-10-2010, 08:38 PM #14
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- Feb 2010
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Thanked: 1another image FYI
Here's the second image I sent to Norton - it shows the dispersion of holes across the entire surface of the 8000 side (major holes circled in pencil). One thing I noted was that there were indeed the beginnings or ends of other holes, too, not circled here - ones that had either yet to be uncovered fully by lapping or had been nearly removed by lapping. One or two of the holes also seem long and thin rather than circular or oval.
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03-10-2010, 09:39 PM #15
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03-10-2010, 09:54 PM #16
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03-10-2010, 10:12 PM #17
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- Feb 2010
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Thanked: 1
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The Following User Says Thank You to jlarryc For This Useful Post:
niftyshaving (03-10-2010)
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04-15-2010, 08:33 PM #18
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- Feb 2010
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Thanked: 1Finally got a response from Norton:
"Yes, it does seem irregular to have such pitting. If you would like to exchange the stone please take it back to the retailer where you bought it. They can exchange it and then return it to us for credit."
hmm. They seem to make it a retail exchange issue between me and the vendor, rather than a manufacturer's exchange. Odd, since they acknowledge that it seems to be an irregular stone.
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04-15-2010, 08:50 PM #19Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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04-16-2010, 06:32 AM #20
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Thanked: 3795Here's the thing: If the holes were just holes, then it would not be an issue as lots of synthetic hones have lots of holes. However, your holes are causing a clicking, so that means that your edge is getting hung up on the edges of the holes. That is absolutely positively not acceptable in my book. If you cannot lap out the trouble in a reasonable period of lapping, then you should definitely get a different hone.