Thread: In praise of the Guangxi stone

Originally Posted by Maladroit

We can buy the larger size Guangxi stone in Australia for about AUD 45 - so you guys in the US should be able to buy one for a bit less. I bought one and can confirm that while it is capable of finishing a razor, it's pretty slow when compared to a modern synthetic like a Shapton 12k ceramic. The Shapton is fast and gives the same results from razor to razor; the Chinese stone is slow and a bit hit and miss depending on the blade.

If you want a good finisher that doesn't demand great patience get a Naniwa or Shapton 12k.

Maladroit, could you elaborate on where?

No worries Frank, Fine Tools have them. Carbatec have also sold them in the past but don't seem to have them in stock anymore.

Mujingfang Natural Water Sharpening Stone - 13,000+ Grit 66 mm Wide - Fine Tools Australia

They're not quite flat and the surface is a little irregular out of the box and therefore needs lapping - I used wet and dry 240, 360 and 600 on a tile. Thereafter you can use your DMT to raise a slurry if desired.

Originally Posted by Maladroit

No worries Frank, Fine Tools have them. Carbatec have also sold them in the past but don't seem to have them in stock anymore.

Mujingfang Natural Water Sharpening Stone - 13,000+ Grit 66 mm Wide - Fine Tools Australia

They're not quite flat and the surface is a little irregular out of the box and therefore need lapping - I used wet and dry 240, 360 and 600 on a tile. Thereafter you can use your DMT to raise a slurry if desired.

I recently got that same stone from Fine Tools and after a fair amount of work it is brilliant. Your statement "not quite flat and the surface is a little irregular out of the box" is completely accurate. Mine took a couple of hours on and off using finer and finer grades of WD paper. Regardless the end result is wonderful. As an added exercise I flattened the other side as well because as a natural stone there is a possibility it would be different. It was very different with an alternating grain pattern that was not apparent on the first side. It was my intention to use the "other" side to create a same stone slurry with WD paper and finish on whichever seems the finer of the 2 sides. It is a great stone and it is a slow working stone but not too slow. Once lapped it is a very classy looking rock.

This might be a dumb question but since I am very new at this concept of honing, I have to ask. I bought one of these 12k stones and wanted to know what to do if you don't have a DMT then how should you create slurry? Can you use one of these Nagura stones or are these just for cleaning off stones?

Thx.

I know when I got my 12k I tried lapping it with wet/dry paper and gave up and just bought a DMT, which was well broken in when I finished lapping it. Mine also came with a slurry stone. Not really sure about that slurry stone, but I know my stone was really hard so I am guessing that the slurry would consist of only the slurry stone particles and no clue how those would work. A 8"x3" DMT is a good investment, but if you don't want one of those you could get the DMT cards. They are pretty cheap.

Originally Posted by SirMike

This might be a dumb question but since I am very new at this concept of honing, I have to ask. I bought one of these 12k stones and wanted to know what to do if you don't have a DMT then how should you create slurry? Can you use one of these Nagura stones or are these just for cleaning off stones?

Thx.

I believe that slurry stone is quoted as 8000 grit but have nothing other than the internet to rely on. I have the same stone and have used it on my Chinese water stone with good results gradually diluting the slurry with water. I don't rub the stone too hard on the main stone surface.

Originally Posted by baldas

I believe that slurry stone is quoted as 8000 grit but have nothing other than the internet to rely on. I have the same stone and have used it on my Chinese water stone with good results gradually diluting the slurry with water. I don't rub the stone too hard on the main stone surface.

Yes, I think it is around the 8k mark. I just wondered if creating a slurry on the 12k stone is needed or if it can help an edge better than just using water! I will probably just use water on it.

Thx. for the reply!

I have found as the stone settles in after the initial lapping it responds very well to water only. Very gentle pressure and it works well.

Originally Posted by SirMike

Yes, I think it is around the 8k mark. I just wondered if creating a slurry on the 12k stone is needed or if it can help an edge better than just using water! I will probably just use water on it.

Thx. for the reply!

It all depends. Are you using a progression? If you are using it as a finisher in a progression and without a big gap to cover then a slurry may be pointless. If you are using it as a one stone after a bevel set then manipulating a slurry is the only way to cover the gap between a 1k and finishing stone. Manipulating slurry on a natural stone, IMO, is an advanced technique along with natural stones themselves. Not that you can't learn. Anyone can but synthetics are usually recommended for beginners.

Originally Posted by SirMike

Yes, I think it is around the 8k mark. I just wondered if creating a slurry on the 12k stone is needed or if it can help an edge better than just using water! I will probably just use water on it.

Thx. for the reply!

Here's my take on this stone and an example progression. I use naturals exclusively, other than for setting bevels.

8k slurry will give you 8k scratches (or 8k polish).

Diluting a synthetic slurry.. not sure to what benefit. You would have less 8k particles creating scratches, but they will still be creating 8K scratches. Just create a light slurry and wash it off when you're done. The goal of you next stone is to remove ALL those scratches, not remove some and leave some on.

Raise C12K slurry after the 8K one. Diluting that slurry may make sense, but my observations have shown very little difference. It's a YMMV kinda thing.. best to experiment with it.

Switch to water and work it until the blade starts to stick to the hone somewhat. Observe the edge to see if all the previous scratches are gone. If not, clear the stone with a slurry stone, wash it off and have another go at it (still on water).

Depending on the specific stone, finishing under running water may make a lot of sense and may improve the edge tremendously. Do this until the blade starts to stick to the hone real good. Light pressure at this stage.

I use a bit of pressure. People not using pressure on a hard stone such as this has earned this stone a "bad" reputation of being slow. It's not that slow, considering it's natural. Just use a bit of pressure.. hard to say how much, that comes with experience (5, 6, 10 weights of the blade? What about the steel type.. and how much does that blade weigh anyway? [emoji6] ). Only when you get to the last 15-20 strokes, you go as light as possible.

Someone used a phrase "stone settling in". This makes no sense in my view.. the surface is either clear, clogged, or somewhere in between and this changes all the time, depending on what one seeks to accomplish.