Thread: In praise of the Guangxi stone

I have found that Natural Chinese stones Vary quite a bit from stone to stone and that there are basically 3 different finishing techniques between them that seem to work out depending on the characteristics of your stone

Water and MANY laps
Using them much like an Oil Stone with Soap or Smith's Honing solution (or similar)
Light slurry and Dilution methods


There might be more out types out there but I have not seen them yet !!!

You have to try your stone with your razors and figure out what you have to work with

Remember

"Synthetic hones are an exact science, and Natural stones are a Romance" don't start tat love affair unless you want to do the courting part hehehehe

Intresting , mine works best with misty slurry , on plain watter more than 15 laps and the sharpness decrease a bit . Its a sft stone for The PHIG s but , still lot of rubing qith a small jasper stone for slurry , to get a good slurry .
The DMT gives pretty coarse slurry that didnot degrade very easyly in finnes .

I have two, one is hard as glass and behaves like a Translucent Arkansas but faster, the other one is softer and works well with slurry. You have to learn your stones and see what works best for each one

Originally Posted by Steel

It all depends. Are you using a progression? If you are using it as a finisher in a progression and without a big gap to cover then a slurry may be pointless. If you are using it as a one stone after a bevel set then manipulating a slurry is the only way to cover the gap between a 1k and finishing stone. Manipulating slurry on a natural stone, IMO, is an advanced technique along with natural stones themselves. Not that you can't learn. Anyone can but synthetics are usually recommended for beginners.

I would be using it only as a finishing stone or for refreshing an edge. I will be using Norton 1k, 4k/8k, then the 12k. Just wondered if I can get a better 12k edge by using slurry, slurry/water or just water! I was just hoping to raise the finish up some past the 12k mark if possible as a Suehiro 20k is out of my price reach so looking for options to better the edge!

I also have a Coti so would that be used after the 12k or in place of the 12k and after the 8k?

Thx. for the comments everyone!

Try SUPER light pressure for 20 laps or try Smith's Honing Solution to push the edge further.

Originally Posted by SirMike

I would be using it only as a finishing stone or for refreshing an edge. I will be using Norton 1k, 4k/8k, then the 12k. Just wondered if I can get a better 12k edge by using slurry, slurry/water or just water! I was just hoping to raise the finish up some past the 12k mark if possible as a Suehiro 20k is out of my price reach so looking for options to better the edge!

I also have a Coti so would that be used after the 12k or in place of the 12k and after the 8k?

Thx. for the comments everyone!

Originally Posted by SirMike

I would be using it only as a finishing stone or for refreshing an edge. I will be using Norton 1k, 4k/8k, then the 12k. Just wondered if I can get a better 12k edge by using slurry, slurry/water or just water! I was just hoping to raise the finish up some past the 12k mark if possible as a Suehiro 20k is out of my price reach so looking for options to better the edge!

I also have a Coti so would that be used after the 12k or in place of the 12k and after the 8k?

Thx. for the comments everyone!

You need to figure out your chinese and then figure out your coticule. I would try them both after the 8k Norton, on water.

I'd argue that you don't need anything other than a coti after your 1K, but that would be relative.

C12K in my experience, has been finer than a coticule. On water only and all clogged up provided a finer polish... judging by some other answers in this thread, this is completely subjective, as expected

Originally Posted by SirMike

I would be using it only as a finishing stone or for refreshing an edge. I will be using Norton 1k, 4k/8k, then the 12k. Just wondered if I can get a better 12k edge by using slurry, slurry/water or just water! I was just hoping to raise the finish up some past the 12k mark if possible as a Suehiro 20k is out of my price reach so looking for options to better the edge!

I also have a Coti so would that be used after the 12k or in place of the 12k and after the 8k?

Thx. for the comments everyone!

When going from an 8k to a Guangxi I would use a light slurry and dilute it to plain water. A coticule would fall in before a Guangxi and in that case I wouldn't use a slurry on the Guangxi but just plain water after a coticule.

As I said, natural stones are an advanced study. You vary the pressure, manipulate slurry, and many other techniques to achieve a remarkable edge. All the hours I have put in on naturals has been well worth it!

Originally Posted by Srdjan

You need to figure out your chinese and then figure out your coticule. I would try them both after the 8k Norton, on water.

I'd argue that you don't need anything other than a coti after your 1K, but that would be relative.

C12K in my experience, has been finer than a coticule. On water only and all clogged up provided a finer polish... judging by some other answers in this thread, this is completely subjective, as expected

That is my main reason for wanting/getting a Coti as I heard it could go from the bevel setter to finish. I like that idea alot!

Originally Posted by Steel

When going from an 8k to a Guangxi I would use a light slurry and dilute it to plain water. A coticule would fall in before a Guangxi and in that case I wouldn't use a slurry on the Guangxi but just plain water after a coticule.

As I said, natural stones are an advanced study. You vary the pressure, manipulate slurry, and many other techniques to achieve a remarkable edge. All the hours I have put in on naturals has been well worth it!

Okay, I guess I need to get some Gold Dollars and just play!

Originally Posted by SirMike

That is my main reason for wanting/getting a Coti as I heard it could go from the bevel setter to finish. I like that idea alot!



Okay, I guess I need to get some Gold Dollars and just play!

Spring for a better quality, vintage 5/8... I'd go for a straight edge, straight spine (no smileys yet). Will cost cca $30, but you'll have a hone-ready blade... which GDs will not be in most cases.

When you get more experienced, then you can get a few hones in 3-figure grit range and a few GDs to play with. [emoji23]

My practice and hone testing razor is a TR Cadman Bengall. Great steel that will take a great edge.