Thread: Lapping Naniwa with a DMT

My 2c: I was using the DMT D8C (325) for lapping, but getting quite frustrated with the stiction, and getting *nowhere* on hard hones, like a coticule, barber hone, nakayama. I switched to the DMT W250CXNB Duosharp - interrupted surface rather than continuous - and YOWZAH, what a difference!! I can't believe I ever wasted my time with the D8C. The C "Coarse" grade works SOO much better than the D8C, by several factors. And the "X" Extra-Coarse is just a breeze. I am loving it. Plus, it is larger and lighter, making it much easier to use. Of course, it is much more expensive - but a) you get two hones and b) cutting lapping time and effort by 80-90% is SO worth it if you do regular honing.

Also, the thread makes me wonder about this: I have been using a D6EF (600/1200 continuous) for kickingup slurry on my j-nats - and had been advised that this was fine by several experts I trust. But Doesnt that pretty much work on the hone the same way that lapping does - i.e., according to the "dictum" that you can ruin the hone by lapping with finer than 325? (Now, since I don't use the D6EF for much honing, except in rare extraordinary cases of sheffieldfitis and impatience, it's not that big of a deal, but I'd still like to know.)

oh, and glen - I think the 220 laps just fine, not really noticeably less smooth than the 325. Though I usually flip over the W250CXNB to the 325 site and do a few quick swipes ont he 325, just because I can't resist.

I have only used the DMT continuous plates. I have lapped with the XX and the C and always under running water in the kitchen sink when at home or when at work in the sink at my tattoo station. Full disclosure, I use the DMT D8C at work and the Shapton GDLP with interuppted surface at home but always under running water. In the case of the DMT continuous plates the running water eliminates stiction issues for me.

I bought the XX DMT8" 120 grit IIRC because ChrisL and Utopian suggested it for barber hones. I have since quit lapping barber hones and just clean them throughly. Something I am experimenting with. What I have found the XX great for is preliminary lapping. I'll take the pencil grid down 90% of the way and then get the last 10% with the GDLP. This expedites the lapping process and conserves the diamond surface on the more expensive Shapton plate.

At one time I used my D8F 1200 to lap. I was noticing a gray residue on my Norton 4000 and wondered what it was. Fortunately for me my 1200 was new and Sham posted that he had ruined a 1200 lapping hones. So I realized the residue was the surface wear on my plate and quit using it for lapping in time to save it. Subsequently Dia Sharp, the makers o fhe DMT line, posted in their FAQ that waterstones should not be lapped with anything finer than a DMTC and that under running water.

They recommend the X or XX for lapping waterstones. I also have a credit card sized DMT 325 that I use for creating slurry on stones for which I don't have a matching slurry stone. This is very effective and convenient and they are relatively cheap.