Thread: Jump from Shapton GS HC 4k to GS HC 8k possible?

Hi guys, it´s me again with a question.

I recently decided to go for a new 8k stone.
I went for a Shapton Glasstone at Dick.biz in germany (yes, the company is called "dick").
It is the only vendor I know that carries any Shapton GS in germany (even europe?).
I was kind of excited when I saw the stone arriving today was grey, not white as I expected.
The label says 50803 wich indicates the new shapton high carbon (or high polish) 8K stone.
Interesting, I thought they carried the usual white ones...

The stone itself is quite nice, has a good feedback and gives a nice edge slightly finer than Naniwa Superstone 8k
and a tiny tad less keen than Naniwa Super 10k.
The edge compares to my green coticule.

But I find this stone to be a bit slow cutting. Significantly slower than Super 8k and comparable or slower than Super 10k.
It removes teeth from the edge but will not remove scratches left from my mid section stones like Chosera 5k, Shapton Pro 2k, Cerax 6k or Coticule with slurry.
If the edge is polished by a stronger 8k stone, the GS HC 8k will improve it and refine/keep the deep 3D mirror polish that I love so much.

So I guess I will need a new ~6k stone that will leave less deep scratches that the HC8k will be able to remove better.

Would the GS HC 4k do the job?

Does the 4k leave a finish that will enable the 8k to show its potential?
That is, is the HC 8k able to remove the HC 4k scratches completely?
And is the 4k fast enough to be used after common bevel setters like Chosera 1k or DMT 1.2k, or is it too slow?

Should I go GS HC 4k -> HC 8k
or would the HC 6k be of need?

Unless there is something very different about the Shaptons, going from 4k to 8k is a normal jump, so I don't see why there should be any problem there. Same should apply from the 1k to the 4k. I have found I need a little extra time on my Naniwa 5k if I use the DMT1.2 as opposed to the Norton 1k, I think because the DMT1.2 leaves slightly deeper scratches, but the difference is not by any means drastic - just a few more circles.

My honing experience with Shapton Glass Hones is limited to about 5 minutes on some of Lynn's white and grey hones, so I am certainly not a Shapton expert.

Despite this, I've read quite a bit about them since I want the full set some day. I have read that the Shaptons are fine to progress by doubling of grit. That is, 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, 16k, 30k. However, it's my understanding that they do not play well with others, so to get the best use out of them they need to be used as an entire set. Expensive yes, but it looks like they are worth it if you want to do a lot of honing with a variety of hones.

Lesslemming you have an impressive array of hones and obviously a lot of experience. I have the Shapton pro series and like them very much though I pretty much stick with the naniwa ss now. I agree with what Utopian and holli4 said about the doubling of the grit, i.e. 4k to 8k. Matter of fact the USA distributor, Harellson Stanley, recommends that exactly on a DVD I saw of him honing.

I'm not sure in terms of scratch removal because that is incidental to me. I base my results on sharpness tests, TPT, HHT and so forth. OTOH, you obviously have the HAD so if you're looking to rationalize buying a 6k I must say that I think it is a great idea.

I have some of the Shapton hones in 1/4/8/16k and thats the jumps I use. It works very well..!

I dont see any reason why you couldnt do the same with the carbon GS stones.

All I have left of my S GS's are my 1k and 3k. The polish I get off the 3k is FAR greater than what the Norton 4k (that wore out) ever did That is my usual bevel setting line up, from that point on they go to the J-Nats and never look back

I'd be looking for other causes for the scratches, these stones tend to leave shallow paterns that the next stone (4 to 8) would remove compleatly in only a few strokes. MY GS's cut faster than any stone I've tried, but can gunk up with swarf FAST because of that...

Originally Posted by DwarvenChef

All I have left of my S GS's are my 1k and 3k. The polish I get off the 3k is FAR greater than what the Norton 4k (that wore out) ever did That is my usual bevel setting line up, from that point on they go to the J-Nats and never look back

I'd be looking for other causes for the scratches, these stones tend to leave shallow paterns that the next stone (4 to 8) would remove compleatly in only a few strokes. MY GS's cut faster than any stone I've tried, but can gunk up with swarf FAST because of that...

DC, were you also sharpening chef's knives on the Norton ? That is a fair amount of hone to wear out with just razors.

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

That is a fair amount of hone to wear out with just razors.

...Unless you're Lynn!

Thank you guys, you really are HAD enablers!
My only concern was that because the HC 8k is significantly slower than the Super 8k, the HC 4k might be that slow, too.
But maybe it will turn out alright! I asked "the dick" if the 4k would be the usual white, or grey and am seriously considering going shapton for a while. I am not very comfortable with my chosera 1k/5k combination lately.

Although I love the Naniwa Super, I can´t get quite along with the 5k. I sold mine recently.

I tried almost any set of stone available on the european market, and have found very few sets that give pleasing results in ALL aspects of the sharpening.

Shapton Glass, if the 4k grey will perform well, is a good candidate.
I will keep you posted.

The shap is likely a bit harder than nani= maybe slower cutting. to tell you the truth that sounds like a lot of comparisons to cram into one day and pronounce the results finalized and determined. (Assuming you are sharpening carbon steel; i guess should be added in here somewhere.)

For instance-scratches from coticule slurry- what are those and how do you see them and why are they different than coticule. I suggest to just play it cool and give the slab a chance to work its way into your sharpening modality