Thread: Lapping / Slurry stone question not covered in the Wiki

If the color of your Aloxite is very different from the CF, you'll be able to tell which hone is breaking down to create the slurry. CF colored is CF slurry, Aloxite colored is Aloxite. The reason the DMT is suggested is that it is known that it will not break down, so you are guaranteed to get slurry from the main hone.

I have used a pocked sized medium Spyderco hone as a slurry stone - it is very hard and doesn't break down, so it worked. I already had it, so I figured why not. I like it more than a DMT 325 because my DMT 325 will put scratches into hard hones (like my Thurry or C12k) but the Spyderco won't. I actually use my Spyderco to remove the scratches left behind by my DMT 325 after I initially lap hard hones.

Originally Posted by MarkinLondon

While I know that a carborundum barbers hone is technically man-made, I'm pretty sure that my decades-old Aloxite is harder and faster than the CF. Can that be used to lap it or generate a slurry? I suppose that it can, but does anyone do that?

General Rule never use 2 different type or grit stones while you are trying to make slurry. if you want to use stone it will be better to find small CF OR cut CF AND use it as slurry stone.(never seen someone will cut CF.

I've read about using oil on the CF, but I think that I will only use water.

what i mean is this. if you want to get maximum out of your CF you will need to use with oil.can you use with water yes you can.

Rich is right about using it without slurry too.
About paper sandpaper it will take a lot sandpaper to make CF flat specially i think you were trying to use higher grit one.
hope this helps.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

If the color of your Aloxite is very different from the CF, you'll be able to tell which hone is breaking down to create the slurry. CF colored is CF slurry, Aloxite colored is Aloxite. The reason the DMT is suggested is that it is known that it will not break down, so you are guaranteed to get slurry from the main hone.

That's damn fine wisdom. Thank you.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I have used a pocked sized medium Spyderco hone as a slurry stone - it is very hard and doesn't break down, so it worked. I already had it, so I figured why not. I like it more than a DMT 325 because my DMT 325 will put scratches into hard hones (like my Thurry or C12k) but the Spyderco won't. I actually use my Spyderco to remove the scratches left behind by my DMT 325 after I initially lap hard hones.

So: I won't be using oil; I won't be generating slurry; and may be forced to purchase an expensive 8" DMT plate just to lap my Charnley. I'm not sure that I'm happy with that last bit. I have no desire to spend £40 on a DMT just to use a £40 Charnley Forest. There needs to be another way.

I think that I'm going to pick up a package of assorted grit wet/dry paper and try that. Perhaps it will take all day. Perhaps my arm will fall off. Perhaps I'll listen to all my Junior Wells records before the hone is flat. But I'll say one thing: using a straight razor sure is fun.

Oil should work better than water, as said above.

The DMT will last a long time and let you lap anything. It is an initial investment, but in the long run it's cheaper than sandpaper, and, IMO, much easier to use.


That said, you've gotta do what makes you happy.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

Oil should work better than water, as said above.

The DMT will last a long time and let you lap anything. It is an initial investment, but in the long run it's cheaper than sandpaper, and, IMO, much easier to use.


That said, you've gotta do what makes you happy.

Oil? Really? That seems messy. What kind of oil?

I see that you're in Rochester. I spent a few months taking a brain beating at the U of R in the early 80's. Is Nick Tahoe's still serving Garbage Plates?

Oil isn't really messy. It only gets on the hone and the blade and whatever you put the hone on. The tops of swiffer boxes work, as do cookie trays. I would guess mineral oil is the easiest, but I don't know if it matters.

I spent 5 years taking a brain beating at the U of R. Garbage Plates are still in abundance, though I prefer them from other places.

Originally Posted by MarkinLondon

Oil? Really? That seems messy. What kind of oil?

Very good question.
There is only 1 kind oil is absolutely contraindicate to use with CF.
I DON'T remember name of it but before you use any oil find out the name of it. it should be in srp in old posts.
I am sorry i just cannot remember from my head. I am sure srp members knows name.
Some one will come up and let us know name of it.

I've recently lapped 2 Charnley Forests by placing a $3 diamond hone with plastic backing on a glassplate. I'm sure it's slower than with a DMT but it's much cheaper. Afterwards you will have to lap it on 120 or 240 sanding paper but that shouldn't take long.

Originally Posted by Piet

I've recently lapped 2 Charnley Forests by placing a $3 diamond hone with plastic backing on a glassplate. I'm sure it's slower than with a DMT but it's much cheaper. Afterwards you will have to lap it on 120 or 240 sanding paper but that shouldn't take long.

It was an 80 grit plate? It must have been very uneven to require that low a grit.

It seems as though hones really are treated like pieces of wood. First you look for visible signs of uneven surfaces, and then find anything you can to start flattening, smoothing and polishing it. I learn something every day.

When is it appropriate to end the lapping process? Must a fine stone like the CF be lapped up to a certain grit? Like 1200? or higher? No one seems to lap it up to 16k, but no one seems to stop at 325. Is there a technical reason for choosing a certain grit, or must it only be flat?

Other than lapping a Coti on 600 paper, I've no experience doing this, but I've recently acquired a few stones (five or six, as it turns out) and really need to lap them all. Some of them will be difficult, like the Aloxite BH that actually feels rough, and the CF, which probably needs it. perhaps I really do need to bite the bullet and pick up an 8" 325 DMT just to get through all these crazy hones.

I've never been able to figure out why a stone lapped to 325 is capable of honing at higher levels.

HAD; I'm beggin' ya.

I lapped my CF on a 325 DMT and it worked great. CF's are really hard stones (way harder than a coticule) and I have to agree with Sham that you'll chew through a lot of paper getting it lapped!

But that 325 leaves a nice flat smooth surface and I didnt need to do anything else after that. Just the 325 and it was ready to go.

I dont use mine with slurry either. I was lucky and mine hasnt been used with oil, so I use a tip that JimmyHAD gave me: Put a couple of drops of dish soap on the hone before you start honing and that gives you the same result as oil, with the added advantage that you can wash it off!

After I come off the 12k Naniwa, I put some soap on the CF and then do 40 or 50 laps on the stone. Then I just go right to my daily strop and test shave, I dont use any pastes at all.

I gotta say, between them my CF and Maruichi have pretty much rendered my pasted strops redundant!